AQUARIUM

TROUT (Oncorhynchus mykiss)

2009-01-14T09:21:00.002+07:00

Rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) are native to western North America and have been cultured for over 100 years. Over the last several years, the U.S. trout industry has been relatively stable in numbers of operations and value of sales and output. The state of Idaho produces the most trout in the United States (41 million pounds sold in 1998). North Carolina leads trout production (3.5 million pounds sold in 1998) in the southeastern states.

Kentucky has a small, but well established commercial rainbow trout industry with seven year-round farms producing approximately 400,000 pounds. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Wolfe Creek National Fish Hatchery, located near Jamestown, Kentucky, also annually produces about one million trout for stocking as sportfish.

Kentucky trout production is limited by the availability of large freshwater springs which provide gravity-fed water in adequate quantity. These springs must have a year round supply of contaminant free water. To insure trout survival, water temperature should rarely exceed 70 degrees F. For a small trout facility to provide supplemental income, flow rates of approximately 350-500 gallons per minute would be required.

Small scale, full time trout farming would require flow rates of 1,000-2,000 gallons per minute. Most Kentucky trout farms are equipped with egg incubation facilities. Eyed eggs are typically purchased from commercial brood fish farms located in the western United States.

Trout and trout eggs should be certified to be free of diseases. Commercial culture occurs primarily in concrete raceways. Large volumes of water flow via gravity through a series of 4-8 raceways and is discharged into a receiving stream. Densely stocked fish are supplied with cold water which is rich in dissolved oxygen.

The water flow removes wastes from the culture unit and is replenished with oxygen when spilled into the next raceway. The water flow rate, water chemistry, temperature, size of fish, and the rate of feeding determines the volume of fish that can be produced in a particular raceway system. Average values are 20-40 pounds of fish per gallon per minute flow rate per year.

Trout may also be stocked in ponds during late fall (October or November) at a rate of 1000-1200 fish per acre in ponds which allow seining and do not contain largemouth bass. During the winter, trout may also be grown in suspended cages and net pens.

Trout, 8-10 inches in length are stocked in ponds, cages or net pens, in order to reach marketable size by spring (March or April). Six fish may be stocked per cubic foot of volume of a cage or net pen.

Currently, production and marketing research is underway to investigate profitable alternative water sources for growing trout. These would include waters associated with coal mining operations in eastern Kentucky. South Eastern Community College in Cumberland, Kentucky has been developing a trout production demonstration site as a result of a KDA Value-added Grant.

S. E. Community College estimates there may be as many as 500 suitable trout production sites in Harlan, Bell, and Letcher Counties using water from abandoned deep coal mines. Grow-out culture and test marketing of winter, pond-raised trout is currently being conducted in fallow freshwater shrimp ponds.

However, the high cost of stocker trout, feed, and poorly developed markets contribute to uncertain profitability of seasonal trout production. Efforts are underway to provide lower cost, advanced trout fingerlings for winter stocking.

The KAA has applied for and been awarded a KDA Value-added Grant to contract with a trout producer to supply a lower cost source of Kentucky raised fingerlings. Cooperative purchase of larger feed shipments will be organized to reduce costs. Test marketing of small volumes of fresh trout is being conducted.

Article Source:

http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Trout.htm

TILIPIA (Oreochromis niloticus)

2009-01-13T09:02:00.002+07:00

Several species of tilapia and their hybrids are farmed throughout the world. The nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) is a species commonly farmed in the United States. There is evidence to suggest the Egyptians raised tilapia in ponds over 3,000 years ago.

Tilapia are also called "Saint Peter's Fish" because it has been said that they were the fish Peter caught when Christ told him to cast out his nets in the Sea of Galilee.

Tilapia have several attributes which make them attractive as a culture species: high tolerance of poor water quality and crowding, good performance on commercial catfish feed (32% protein), a high degree of disease resistance, and a mild flavored, white flesh.

Because of their tolerance to crowding and poor water quality, tilapia are well suited to cage culture and recirculating systems. Research has also shown that in addition to controlling filamentous algae, tilapia stocked in channel catfish ponds can help control off-flavors by eating blue-green and other large planktonic algae.

Tilapia have a good growth rate. A 2 to 4 ounce tilapia fingerling can reach 3/4 pound. by the end of a temperate growing season. Tilapia performance is best in a temperature range of 72-90ºF. Growth and feeding slow when water temperatures drop below 70ºF.

However, tilapia are cold intolerant and die when water temperatures are lower than 45-55ºF. Blue tilapia will survive in lower water temperatures (above 45ºF) than most other species of tilapia.

The pond production season in Kentucky would begin in late April and end just before the middle of October. Therefore, tilapia marketing would be seasonal and within a week or two of the same time each year. Indoor culture of tilapia in recirculating systems could extend the growing season.

Article Source:

http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Tilipia.htm

STURGEON (Ascipenser fulvescens )

2009-01-12T08:06:00.002+07:00

Sturgeons are found only in the northern hemisphere. Like the paddlefish, sturgeon are without bones and the processed roe (caviar) is highly valued. Of the 26 sturgeon species found in the world, the main sources of caviar for global demand are only from four sturgeon species from the Caspian Sea:
a) beluga (Huso huso)
b) Russian sturgeon or osetra (Acipenser gueldenstaedti)
c) stellate or sevruga (A. stellatus)
d) ship (A. nudiventris)

Reports have shown that there is a major decline in sturgeon stocks within the Caspian Sea. Farming technologies have been established for some commercially valuable species. Sevruga and Russian sturgeons are being farm-raised in ponds in Europe.

In the United States, white sturgeon have been farmed-raised on one farm in California which has recently begun to market meat and caviar. The farming system uses a recirculating system requiring feeding prepared diets, intensive management, and high capital and operating costs, especially for mature females for production of caviar.

Shovelnose sturgeon, found in the Mississippi drainage, have recently drawn much attention as a domestic caviar in the United States. The use of Russian sturgeon that can be farm-raised in ponds and co-exist with other fish species should be evaluated in Kentucky.

Article Source:

http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Sturgeon.htm

PRAWN (SHRIMP)

2009-01-11T08:49:00.002+07:00

Macrobrachium rosenbergii

The freshwater shrimp, or more properly, freshwater prawn, is a member of a large group of freshwater crustaceans found in many parts of the world. There are several species found native to the U.S., but most aquaculture efforts are concentrated on the Giant Malaysian Prawn (Macrobrachium rosenbergii) which is a native of southern Asia.

Culture efforts in the U.S. were initiated in Hawaii in the 1960s, South Carolina in the 1970s, and Mississippi in the 1980s. Despite these efforts, substantial concentrated production of this species has not developed. Large scale production has been hindered by relatively low production rates, size variability at harvest, and a relatively demanding process for producing seedstock.

Over the past five years interest in production of this animal has again increased due to an increasing demand for shrimp products, reduced supplies of shrimp (especially large sizes) due to serious disease problems in saltwater shrimp production, and increases in production rates for prawns based on new management and production practices.

Other factors producing increased interest in production include identified markets for live and fresh prawns in inland locations, the growing trend among consumers wanting to know of how their food was produced, and the discovery that prawns actually grow more rapidly at cooler temperatures.

Seedstock production for prawns normally begins with selection of broodstock at the harvest of production ponds in the fall. The number of females is based on anticipated production needs. Broods must be overwintered in tanks at greater than or equal to 70º.

Volume and added substrate in holding tanks should allow each brooder approximately two square feet of surface area. Broods should be fed a high quality marine shrimp diet or sinking salmonid pellet. Either should be supplemented with fish flesh and beef liver so that the females can store the proper nutrients in the egg yolks for the larvae to live on after hatching.

In Kentucky, production ponds are stocked in late May-early June with what are known as 60 day nursed juveniles (0.3-0.5 gram average weight). That is they have been grown for 60 days in freshwater after completing 30 days of larval development in brackish (salty) water.

This means prawns should be hatched from mid-February to mid-March to allow sufficient nursery time prior to pond stocking. Nursery tanks are normally much larger than larval tanks as stocking rates are reduced from approximately 200 per gallon in the larval tanks to 20 per gallon in the nursery tanks.

These tanks must also be provided with mesh substrate structures sufficient to produce 40 post larvae per square foot density. In the nursery phase, water temperatures are maintained at 78-82ºF and the prawns are fed trout starter feeds at a declining percentage of body weight.

Article Source:

http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Prawn(Shrimp).htm

Common goldfish

2009-01-10T08:57:00.002+07:00

Common goldfish are a type of goldfish with no other modifications from their ancestors other than their color. Most varieties of fancy goldfish were derived from this simple breed. Common goldfish come in a variety of colors including red, orange/gold, white, black and yellow or 'lemon' goldfish.

As pets

The Common goldfish has become a popular pet around the world. They are hardier than fancier fish, able to live in a variety of conditions ranging from aquariums to outdoor ponds, and can withstand change in water temperature and quality better. They also breed easier and truer to form than other fish. If well cared for, Common goldfish can live up to 20 or more years in captivity.

Temperament

Common goldfish are social animals, and like to live in groups. They enjoy interacting with others of the same species and the overall breed is friendly. With proper care they can become quite tame, eating from hands and swimming frantically towards the owner.

When one goldfish is unexpectedly placed in a tank with other goldfish, it might try to rub up against the others to familiarize itself with them or to communicate that it is not a threat. The most common positions are side to side with heads facing forward, side to side with heads facing opposite directions, and perpendicular, where one goldfish swims above another and settles down over it. The fish will generally school together for a while. After a while this behavior will cease, and the fish will swim separately again. Who gets the most food usually has to do with the size of the goldfish, but sometimes a smaller one will be the more aggressive member of the school. There may be some infighting and nibbling at one another right after introduction, but usually only moody goldfish will do this. Goldfish are very competitive regarding food and do not share amongst themselves.

Small goldfish are semi-afraid of human contact and will do anything to avoid it. However, sexually mature fish are more brave. Large goldfish may eat from their owner's hands without any prior experience. They will also nibble at anything new in their surroundings, except larger fish and predators. This is their way of tasting. Your fingers may get nibbled at, but keep in mind that the goldfish cannot harm you. After a few weeks' time, goldfish will begin to follow their owners around the room. If you use a floating food, they will swim toward the top of the tank every time you come near.

Housing

It is a common practice to keep common goldfish in a small bowl but this allows waste in the water to build-up to toxic levels and does not provide enough oxygen. They should be kept in an aquarium of at least 10 gallons with a good filter. Actual recommendations range from this up to 100 gallons, but it is possible to enjoy goldfish even in smaller tanks.

Goldfish are curious fish that will quickly become bored without items or other fish to interact with. If placed in an aquarium or other small container without gravel, goldfish will settle to the bottom and only move when fed or frightened by sudden jolts. However, if placed in a tank with sufficient gravel, aquarium accessories or plants (real or fake) they will make themselves at home. Adding a few companion fish will also help, but make sure each fish has plenty of personal space.

When adding goldfish to a new tank it is important to place no more than two at a time. This allows helpful bacteria (which turns ammonia to nitrite and finally to nitrate) to grow. If introduced in too great a number before these bacteria grow, the goldfish will die from breathing in too much of their own untreated excrement. Even after the development of the biological filter, it is necessary to change about 30% of the water at least four times a month (or as necessary to prevent a build-up of harmful nitrate). The addition of live aquatic plants may reduce the number of times per month you will have to perform water changes, but only if the plants are growing (they will uptake nitrate as a source of nitrogen).

Common goldfish can be kept in outdoor ponds throughout the year with similar care but they may become sluggish and stop feeding in the winter. This does not mean they are sick, but rather that their metabolism has slowed.

Breeding

Breeding commons is fairly easy. In breeding condition the males will develop small white spots on his gill covers and the female will become plump. The male will chase the female until she releases her eggs, then the male will release sperm and they will become fertilized. The eggs will then stick to any available surface. It is then best to remove the eggs to a separate aquarium as the adults are likely to eat them. When the eggs hatch into fry they will need to be fed very small food such as hatched brine shrimp or a ready made fry food. As they grow bigger they can eat finely crumbled fish food.

Sickness

Common goldfish are usually hardy but can contract diseases. These can be caused by unclean water, overfeeding and overcrowding. In small aquariums, illnesses in common goldfish can quickly become fatal, meaning prompt treatment is important. Several symptoms can indicate sick fish: cuts on any of the fins, a change in scale or eye color, excretions from the nostrils, scales falling off or the fish frequently making trips to the surface. Many treatments can be bought to treat specific diseases, but the best treatment is prevention.

Goldfish as Feeder Fish

Common goldfish are often used as live prey for predatory fishes such as Oscars or Piranhas. They are also fed to larger crayfish, turtles, and frogs. Sold at only about one inch long, they are easily eaten by other animals. Often selling cheap, about 30 US cents a piece, they are often bought by the dozen. However, some people find it cruel to feed live goldfish to predators and consider it pointless since most predators will also eat dead prey.
Article Source:
http://www.redorbit.com/education/reference_library/fish/common_goldfish/2420/index.html

Did you know that many goldfish are not golden in color?

2009-01-09T10:07:00.002+07:00

So, you have a goldfish and have no idea why is it called a goldfish when it looks orange or whether to keep it in your freshwater aquarium or not!The color of goldfish depends on the environment it is bred in as well as the light it is exposed to. However, they aren’t really golden – more a combination (or absence) of the two or three types of pigment cells black, yellow and red – that give the Goldfish a variety of color effects. Goldfish can be golden, red, white, bronze and even blue and black.

The Goldfish is a fresh water fish and is the most common aquarium fish. Its scientifuic name is Carassius auratus auratus and it belongs to the carp family. This fish lives in a home aquarium for about six to eight years, though 20 years is a possibility! The maximum that a goldfish has been seen to grow is 23 inches, although generally it is half this length.

The goldfish was first developed in China through interbreeding. Today there are many varieties of this fish with variations in colors, fin and eye configurations. There are wild varieties and those that have to be kept in aquariums. The common varieties are: Common, Black Moor, Bubble Eye, Celestial Eye, Comet, Fantail, Lionhead, Oranda, Pearlscale, Pompom, Ryukin, Shubunkin, Telescope Eye, Ranchu, Panda Moor, and Veiltail.

Pond dweller
Goldfish is often a favorite pond fish because it is hardy and inexpensive. The colors and small size also add to its popularity. Common pond goldfish are Common, London and Bristol shubunkins, Jikin, Wakin, comet and fantail.

These fishes survive in ponds all the year round in temperate and subtropical climates so long as the water doesn’t freeze solid during winters. Most often you can avoid this by being careful about the depth of the pond.

A deep enough pond will not freeze completely. In such conditions, the fish moves to the bottom of the pond and if your pond has a good plant system, the fishes will survive on the oxygen generated by the plants. They might eat less during this phase.

Aquarium favorite
All over the world, fish enthusiasts love Goldfish for its hardy nature. Goldfish can also live in unheated water. The problem with Goldfish is that they create a lot of mess in the aquarium. Goldfish are habitual eaters but cannot disgest excess protein. This is relesed in the aquarium and toxic levels build up quickly and kill the fish. You need to have a good filter in your aquarium and feed just the required amount of food to the fish.

Even though, goldfish can survive in cold water, it cannot withstand rapid temperature changes. Be careful to provide consistent temperature conditions to your fish.

Goldfish also find it diffciult to survive in small confined areas like bowls. The toxic levels build up quickly in such a system and poison the fish.
Article Source:
http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishcolour.html

Providing The Best Care For Your Goldfish

2009-01-08T10:19:00.002+07:00

Goldfish care is critical for the health of your goldfish. Unfortunately, goldfish are very vulnerable to disease, with young goldfish even more so.

Many new goldfish owners have watched their goldfish die in their fish tanks or aquariums only days or even hours after purchasing a goldfish. Fortunately, there are a few simple steps you can take to preserve the health of your goldfish.

First, do all that is possible to make sure that your fish is healthy. If there are any sores on its body, pass on it. Before you put your fish in the fish bowel, let the water return to room temperature.

After your fish is in the fishbowl, feed it right away. However, be sure to not feed it too much. Usually, just a pinch of fish food will be sufficient for your goldfish. Fish bowls will usually need to be cleaned about once every week or so.

Some useful tips on Goldfish Care. Usually, only two goldfish should be in the same fishbowl, aquarium or fish tank. Any more, and it will jeopardize the health of your goldfish. If your goldfish appears unhealthy, consider buying a healthier fish food. If your fish does not appear to be getting healthier, consult your veterinarian. Goldfish will be much healthier if you provide a fish bowel or plastic plants that your fish will be able to swim around or in. Goldfish, under proper care, will usually live about 5 or 6 years. If you take good goldfish care, you will be able to enjoy and appreciate your gold fish for many years.

Article Source:

http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishcare.html

Breeding Goldfish

2009-01-07T10:06:00.002+07:00

Goldfish Females Appreciate A Date Done Right!

Breeding goldfish is actually a fair amount more difficult than most people would think. Much like us humans, Goldfish are rather particular about the conditions in which their little fishy babies will thrive.

Like women, goldfish females appreciate a date done right. They require proper mood lighting and temperature, a nice meal and a romantic environment to “get-it-on”.

To breed your fish, these natural phenomena need to be replicated in order to produce the proper conditions for healthy egg production and maturation.

To get the best chances of success for you’re goldfish breeding, improve the odds. Rather than tossing one girl and one boy fish into the tank, use a two male to one female ratio. Using six goldfish has pretty good possibilities, without overcrowding the tank. The males and females should be kept separated until spawning season, when they can all be joined in one big party.

Preparations for breeding fish should be taken approximately one year prior to spawning season. During this time, it will be your job as matchmaker to replicate the cycle in their natural environment. During the fall, water temperature should be kept cool; around 35-40 ºF and feeding should be reduced to three times per week.
Article Source:
http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/breedinggoldfish.html

How to raise a Goldfish

2009-01-05T10:07:00.003+07:00

Did you know that your goldfish can live for over 10 years? Under the right conditions he can live even longer but most never make it past the first year! If you want your goldfish to live long and healthy lives, you’ve got to provide the proper environment. It’s a common misconception that a goldfish can live in a tiny bowl. In order for him to survive for any length of time, you’ll need to do frequent water changes and cleanings of the bowl – that’s a lot of work and living in a bowl isn’t much fun so it’s best to keep your fish in a regular tank with a proper filtration system.

The size of your tank depends on how many goldfish you want to keep in it. A good rule of thumb is to allocate about 7 gallons of water per fish, so if you want 5 goldfish a 35 gallon tank is recommended. It’s better to keep fish in a long tank that has plenty of surface to air space as goldfish like to have a lot of oxygen in their water. A tall hexagon shaped tank won’t be the best tank for these fish.

Goldfish like their water to be a little on the cool side – between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit so in most cases a heater is not necessary. You should, however have a thermometer in the tank and take the appropriate measures if the temperature gets above 72 degrees as higher temperatures can make your fish more susceptible to disease. Bear in mind that most other tropical fish like their water on the warm side, so you will have to be careful what fish you put in the tank with your goldfish.

Provide the goldfish tank with a filtration system that is appropriate for the size of the tank. If you are keeping the fancy tailed goldfish, don’t use a system that will provide too much current as this can make it difficult for them to swim around. You’ll also want to provide periodic water changes as you should with any tank.

One of the main reasons that fish become sick is due to poor water quality. To keep your goldfish healthy, make sure you provide the filtration and water changes but also be careful about overcrowding and overfeeding. Too many fish or too much decaying food and waste will cause the water in your tank to become toxic to your fish.

Article Source:

http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/raisegoldfish.html

Can your goldfish recognize you?

2009-01-05T09:58:00.002+07:00

A lot of people misconstrue the fish’s uncontrolled eating to be a sign of lack of intelligence. Nothing could be further from truth! Goldfish can actually recognize their owner and have even demonstrated their learned ability to beg for food when the owner come near the aquarium. They may also exhibit recognition by coming close to the glass wall or circle around the surface of the water. They will also show fear of strangers by hiding.

Goldfish have also been noticed to show social behavior. A new fish in the tank may be chased or nipped at. After a while though, fishes might show schooling behavior. They also exhibit similar feeding habits when they have been living together for some time.

Getting close
Goldfish also seem to stop treating humans as threats once they have been amidst them for some time. So much so that you can actually feed them from your hand! Try this trick with soaked pellets. First set a time of the day. Everyday at the same time do this the same way for at least a month.
Hold the food above the water surface when you remove the cover. The fish will begin to rise occassionally ; then release the food only when it does so. Don’t touch the surface of the water yet, you will scare the fish. As the fish get used to this daily ritual, they will rise higher and higer until they begin to hit the surface and gasp. Now try to drop the pellets into their gasping mouths. Next, start lowering your hand little by little. Do this everyday till you reach the surface of the water and then slowly take it a little under the surface and Voila! You have the fish eating out of your hand!

Attitudes!
Some goldfish have even be trained by their owners to swin in a routine. In fact, all fish have some intelligence, contrary to the popular belief and they have personalities. And, they will all show aggressive behavior when they have to compete for food or space.

Goldfish are sturdy fish which have been successful in their environment. They are amicable towards each other and rarely harm each other. The competition for food can however be fierce. The faster varieties like comets can sometimes lead to stunted growth of the slower kinds when kept together in an aquarium.

Basically, goldfish are carps and they behave like carps, individually and in groups. Larger fishes can survive alone but smaller fishes show schooling behavior. These fishes have been so successful in survivng because they can survive in low oxygen and very cold conditions as well. It is easy to maintain a goldfish if you are careful about feeding it and understand its behavior patterns. Goldfish can form a pleasant pet and it is definitely relaxing to see one swimming in the soft lights of a home aquarium.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishrecognizeyou.html

CRAWFISH (Procambarus clarkii )

2009-01-03T11:03:00.003+07:00

Crawfish, like shrimp or lobsters, belong to the scientific class Crustacea. Their hard outer shell, called the exoskeleton, does not grow with the crawfish and is shed periodically. In Louisiana, two species of crawfish -- the red swamp and the white river -- provide for the harvest. Crawfish are harvested from both wild habitats (natural rivers, bayous, swamps, and lakes) and controlled, managed crawfish farms. Harvest takes place from November through June, with baited wire-mesh traps. Traps are checked daily, and the catch is packed into 50 lb. onion sacks for delivery to processors. Only the tail meat is recovered from processing. The claw meat is tasty but very meager and difficult to pick out. Tail meat can be purchased fresh or frozen, with prices varying with the time of season and supply.

Both species of crawfish occur naturally in the Mid-Atlantic region, but crawfish farming is a very recent development here. Small, shallow ponds have been stocked with red swamp crawfish and are managed for commercial production. The harvest takes place during spring and summer, coinciding with the tourist season. Production is still very limited, but there is considerable interest in exploring the potential of crawfish farming as an alternative crop.

Crawfish can be purchased whole and fresh, raw or pre-cooked, for immediate use of for your own crawfish boil. If you purchase whole, fresh crawfish, make sure they are alive. Dead crawfish decompose rapidly, resulting in mush, discolored meat.

CULINARY DESCRIPTION

Boiling crawfish is a popular method of preparation, since the meat can be used in a variety of ways. Plan on 3-4 pounds of whole crawfish per person, and 3/4-1 pound of crawfish per gallon of water. Crawfish yield approximately 15% in tail meat, so count on 10 pounds of whole crawfish to get 1 1/2 pounds of meat. Bring water to a boil, and then add the live crawfish. Begin cooking time once the water returns to a boil, with time depending upon how the crawfish will be prepared.

Boil the crawfish for 5 minutes or less when you plan to peel them and use the tail meat for dishes such as bisque. Boiling time is 10 minutes when crawfish are to be eaten immediately. For a traditional boil, season the water by adding lemon wedges, onion, red pepper, garlic, commercial crab- boil seasoning and salt (1/2-1 pound of salt per 5 gallons of water, or to your taste). Whole potatoes, onions, and sweet corn can be boiled along with the crawfish. After the 10-minute boil, turn off heat and let the crawfish soak up the spices for another 10-15 minutes. Remove the crawfish and allow them to cool before peeling. Refrigerate those you don't plan to eat immediately. The crawfish will be red after boiling. Once cooked, the tail meat is tender, firm and slightly sweet, somewhat of a cross between shrimp and lobster.

To peel the crawfish, wash hands first, since you will be handling the meat, and peel them while they are still warm. Separate the tail from the head by slightly pulling and twisting, and discard the head. Hold the tail between thumb and forefingers and squeeze until you hear the shell crack. Grasp the first three segments of tail from the side and pull off by lifting up and pulling around the meat. Firmly grasp the exposed meat in one hand, the tail fin in the other, and pull gently. The meat is now ready to eat, freeze, or serve with your favorite cocktail sauce.
Article Source:
http://www.ocean.udel.edu/mas/seafood/crawfish.html

Vernal Crayfish-Procambarus uiaeviridus (Faxon)

2009-01-01T09:32:00.002+07:00

Adults of this crayfish are rust-red with a blackish wedge-shaped central stripe along the length of the abdomen. The carapace is smooth, and is separated at the middle by a narrow space (areola). The rostrum is broad and without lateral notches or spines near its tip. The pincers are moderately long and slender. Adults are about 1.8 to 3 inches in length.

The vernal crayfish occurs in the Lowlands of southeastern Missouri. In late winter and spring when water levels are high, this crayfish is found in temporarily flooded sloughs and other depressions. As water levels recede in late spring and early summer, it retreats into burrows, not to be seen again until the next wet-weather period.

Other similar crayfish within the range of the species are the red swamp crayfish and the White River crayfish. These species have a narrower rostrum (often with lateral spines) and a granular (roughened) carapace.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm

White River Crayfish-Procambarus acutus (Girard)

2008-12-31T10:09:00.002+07:00

Adults of this species are usually a deep burgundy red with a black V-shaped stripe on the abdomen. Juveniles are gray with dark spots scattered over the carapace. The pincers are long and narrow. The carapace is separated at its middle by a space (areola). The carapace is conspicuously granular (roughened) in adults. Adults are about 2.6 to 4.1 inches in length.

This crayfish occurs commonly in the Lowlands of southeastern Missouri, and northward along the floodplain of the Mississippi River to Clark County. It inhabits sloughs, swamps and sluggish lowland streams and ditches. It frequently burrows to escape drying or freezing.

The White River crayfish resembles the red swamp crayfish. The latter species differs most notably in lacking an areola. Young of the red swamp crayfish are usually plain or striped, not spotted.

Article Source: http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm

Crawfish Information & Facts

2008-12-24T09:35:00.001+07:00

First, we NEVER sell or mix into our Crawfish "Imported Frozen Whole Jumbo Boiled Crawfish". Now I don't like pointing fingers at others, but it has been known for that practice to take place. So if you come across a great price on Boiled Crawfish that's too good to be true as compared to others, then probably it is. We sell and boil only Crawfish daily to assure you the freshest and finest quality for your enjoyment. We do not buy "Peelers" to mix with our regular grade. We always offer a quality eating size, a good mixture to assure you of taste and value. Shedding of the shell is a normal process that Crawfish go thru, just like Shrimp, Crab, Lobster, etc. Therefore throughout the season, Crawfish are weaker at times compared to others. Daily weather conditions, too much rain or not enough, strong winds and their direction, too much heat, etc. all play a factor as to what's available throughout the season. We choose the strongest Crawfish at the time of your order that we have on hand. We (nor does any other shipper) have control as to what areas are being fished daily, resulting in what quality we and others buy on a daily basis. Honestly, we don't buy and ship what we would not eat and serve to our own local customers, family and friends. We purchase our Live Crawfish from only a select few docks and trucks that deliver into the city daily, and have been doing so for many years. This allows us to have a continued quality buying relationship with our suppliers and in return provide you with the best each and every order. We" Wash & Walk" our Live Crawfish prior to shipping them so when they arrive at your location they are cleaned and ready to boil. We offer our own special blend of seafood boil for your live orders, and can provide it for any size order. I will gladly walk you thru the entire boiling process so that you will get the best results. To warm Boiled Crawfish, we suggest soaking them in our same boil for 10 minutes, making them hot out the pot for you enjoyment. We strive to make your Crawfish dining the most enjoyable and will do everything possible to provide you with the finest quality Louisiana Crawfish. Please feel free to contact me for any additional information or if I can make the above facts more understandable.
Article Source: http://www.crawfish.mobi/live-crawfish.php

Crayfish Information

2008-12-23T09:49:00.002+07:00

Crayfish, also called crawfish or crawdad, are closely related to the lobster. More than half of the more than 500 species occur in North America, particularly Kentucky (Mammoth Cave) and Louisiana in the Mississippi basin. Crayfish also live in Europe, New Zealand, East Asia and throughout the world, including the Tristan da Cunha Islands. Nearly all live in freshwater, although a few survive in salt water. Crayfish are characterised by a joined head and thorax, or midsection, and a segmented body, which is sandy yellow, green, or dark brown in colour. The head has a sharp snout, and the eyes are on movable stalks. Crayfish are usually about 7.5 cm (3 inches) long.

Crawfish, like shrimp or lobsters, belong to the scientific class Crustacea. Their hard outer shell, called the exoskeleton, does not grow with the crawfish and is shed periodically. In Louisiana, two species of crawfish -- the red swamp and the white river -- provide for the harvest. Crawfish are harvested from both wild habitats (natural rivers, bayous, swamps, and lakes) and controlled, managed crawfish farms. Harvest takes place from November through June, with baited wire-mesh traps. Traps are checked daily, and the catch is packed into 50 lb. onion sacks for delivery to processors. Only the tail meat is recovered from processing. The claw meat is tasty but very meager and difficult to pick out. Tail meat can be purchased fresh or frozen, with prices varying with the time of season and supply.

Both species of crawfish occur naturally in the Mid-Atlantic region, but crawfish farming is a very recent development here. Small, shallow ponds have been stocked with red swamp crawfish and are managed for commercial production. The harvest takes place during spring and summer, coinciding with the tourist season. Production is still very limited, but there is considerable interest in exploring the potential of crawfish farming as an alternative crop.

Crawfish can be purchased whole and fresh, raw or pre-cooked, for immediate use of for your own crawfish boil. If you purchase whole, fresh crawfish, make sure they are alive. Dead crawfish decompose rapidly, resulting in mush, discolored meat.

Crawfish CULINARY DESCRIPTION

Boiling crawfish is a popular method of preparation, since the meat can be used in a variety of ways. Plan on 3-4 pounds of whole crawfish per person, and 3/4-1 pound of crawfish per gallon of water. Crawfish yield approximately 15% in tail meat, so count on 10 pounds of whole crawfish to get 1 1/2 pounds of meat. Bring water to a boil, and then add the live crawfish. Begin cooking time once the water returns to a boil, with time depending upon how the crawfish will be prepared.

Boil the crawfish for 5 minutes or less when you plan to peel them and use the tail meat for dishes such as bisque. Boiling time is 10 minutes when crawfish are to be eaten immediately. For a traditional boil, season the water by adding lemon wedges, onion, red pepper, garlic, commercial crab- boil seasoning and salt (1/2-1 pound of salt per 5 gallons of water, or to your taste). Whole potatoes, onions, and sweet corn can be boiled along with the crawfish. After the 10-minute boil, turn off heat and let the crawfish soak up the spices for another 10-15 minutes. Remove the crawfish and allow them to cool before peeling. Refrigerate those you don't plan to eat immediately. The crawfish will be red after boiling. Once cooked, the tail meat is tender, firm and slightly sweet, somewhat of a cross between shrimp and lobster.

To peel the crawfish, wash hands first, since you will be handling the meat, and peel them while they are still warm. Separate the tail from the head by slightly pulling and twisting, and discard the head. Hold the tail between thumb and forefingers and squeeze until you hear the shell crack. Grasp the first three segments of tail from the side and pull off by lifting up and pulling around the meat. Firmly grasp the exposed meat in one hand, the tail fin in the other, and pull gently. The meat is now ready to eat, freeze, or serve with your favorite cocktail sauce.

Crayfishing for fun and food

Call them crayfish...
Crawfish, crawdaddies, or freshwater lobsters. Whatever you call them, the little crustaceans are abundant in many Utah reservoirs and streams. They are great to eat and fun to catch. In fact, they almost catch you as they swarm and cling to bait tied to a piece of string.

"They're good to eat?" you ask. Scrumptious! Crayfish is the centerpiece of Creole or Cajun cuisine in New Orleans, a must during the national autumn festival in Sweden, equated with lobster in French gourmet restaurants, and from earliest times, a worldwide delicacy wherever available. In fact, in Larousse Gastronomique, the bible of French gourmet cooking, there are only 10 recipes for shrimp, three for crab, but there are 25 different recipes for crayfish! Not only is crayfish good, it's good for you. It is loaded with vitamins, minerals, and high-quality proteins. It is very digestible.

Crayfish in Utah waters...
are important to the overall health of our fisheries. Crayfish are food for bass in Lake Powell and gamefish in Flaming Gorge Reservoir. They can also clear weed-infested waters of algae or moss and thin out rooted plants, which sometimes improves the environment for gamefish. But prolific and aggressive crayfish compete with gamefish for food. The Utah Division of Wildlife Resources seeks to achieve and maintain balance between gamefish and crayfish populations so that each sustains but does not diminish the other.

At some point, it may be necessary to limit crayfishing as we do gamefishing. For now, however, there is no limit to the number of crayfish you can legally catch or possess. You can go after them with a variety of gear in any Utah water, if you have a regular fishing license. Live crayfish cannot be transported away from the water where they were caught.

You can find crayfish in...
the Virgin, Price, Bear, Duchesne, Weber, and Green river basins and in Glen Canyon, Flaming Gorge, Deer Creek, Starvation, Lost Creek, Sandwash, Gunlock, Newcastle, Huntington North, Scofield, East Canyon, Strawberry/Soldier Creek and Willard reservoirs. Crayfish inhabit numerous other lakes, ponds, streams and reservoirs of Utah, except for the Sevier River drainage, where the critters have only recently gained a foothold.

They are found at elevations of 8,000 feet and below — they don't like higher elevations. Utah crayfish prefer clear, fresh water, and rocky habitat, so do your fishing where there is a rocky bottom at depths of less than 20 feet.

Crayfishers are advised to consult offices of the DWR, Agricultural Extension Agents, or fishing supply stores for guidance to likely sites.

Catch crayfish with...
chunks of meat, fish (no game fish), or offal. They are attracted to the odor. In Louisiana where crawfish is king, half the annual harvest is caught on artificial or manufactured bait.

The only gear you really need is a strong string with a large piece of bait tied to one end. For faster action, add a heavy sinker. Throw the bait out into the water; wait a couple of minutes; pull it in smoothly and rapidly; and drop the bait with attached crayfish into a bucket.

CAUTION: A nip from a crayfish claw can be painful! They can't reach you if you pick them up firmly between thumb and forefinger just behind the claws, but it's a good idea to wear gloves until you have practiced a few times.

Most Utah crayfish grow to about four inches long. Those under two inches should be thrown back, unless you want to keep some for gamefish bait. These can be frozen for future use.

For a bigger bag in less time, crayfish can be caught in seine nets pulled between two waders or slow boats, in dip nets, or in traps. (The seines may not exceed 10 feet in length or width.) Equipment is found in most sporting goods stores or can be made at home.

Several types of crayfish traps are illustrated. The ones with a crawl-in entrance are best for overnight settings (crayfish are most active at night). For one-day excursions, traps designed for lifting and frequent inspection are most effective. A loose mesh bag fastened to an old window screen frame with a pull-up string leading to the corners works very well. With any type of trap, the bait should be tied firmly to the floor or be secured by a wirehinged piece of mesh with a catch to keep it closed.

After you catch your crayfish,...
steps must be taken to kill and preserve them. Utah law forbids the transportation of live crayfish. They must be killed where they are caught to prevent their being introduced into waters where they are not wanted.

Because crayfish meat deteriorates rapidly, it is important to ice it quickly and keep it at a temperature of 40 F or below until processed.

Cleanliness is equally important to maintain freshness and flavor. Crayfish, like crab and lobster, have a rough shell and many joints where silt and algae can lodge. Thorough cleaning in the field is not practical, nor is it important if the crayfish body is kept intact. If, however, only the tails are kept, contamination may get into the meat. Another good reason for saving the body is the super-tasty meat in the claws and the nutritious, delicious internal organs and juices which can be used to flavor some dishes and soups.

The essential steps to preserve the texture and flavor of the precious meat are as follows:

Keep the accumulating catch alive until the end of the fishing day. As they are caught, pack the crayfish rather tightly in a large container between layers of moist fabric, such as gunnysacks. This reduces cannibalism among the crayfish. It is a good idea to put ice between the layers of fabric but not directly on the crayfish.
At the end of the day, discard any dead or mutilated crayfish and kill the keepers painlessly and quickly by stabbing each one firmly with a kitchen knife on the top, where the head joins the body.
In a large pot with plenty of cold, clean water, wash the whole crayfish vigorously to remove surface dirt even if you only wish to keep the tails.
Rinse thoroughly in another pot of fresh, cold water. Now remove the tails, if you want to.
Pack whole crayfish or crayfish tails in alternate layers of ice and filter in a large, prechilled ice chest so they do not touch ice or stand in water.
The chest should have a false bottom with at least four inches of space under it. Wood slats or hardware cloth nailed to 1" x 2" crossmembers will serve that purpose. Lay a plastic garbage bag on the bottom to prevent water from splashing upward, then place crayfish two or three deep.
Cover with plastic or newspaper, add two inches of ice, cover with another layer of plastic or newspaper, and then add more crayfish. Repeat until all your crayfish are packed. Top with ice.
Leave the ice chest drain valve open until you are ready to load your vehicle. After the ice chest is packed, don't open it again until you are ready to process the crayfish or transfer them to other refrigeration.

In contrast to the sometimes lonely sport of gamefishing, crayfishing can be a pleasant and productive group activity. If the several tasks are divided, the time from catching to icing is reduced. Preplanning assures you will have everything you need to handle combined catches of 20 pounds or more.

Washing and deveining
When you get your catch home, put the ice chest in a cool place and open the drain valve. The faster you can process the crayfish the better. If you can't process them for several hours, transfer the crayfish to plastic bags and store them in a cold refrigerator.

Discard any crayfish that are too soft or otherwise suspect. In very cold water scrub them, particularly their bottoms, until they look clean. Rinse thoroughly. To remove the thin, black intestine from the tail, grasp the top, middle tail fin (there are five fins), twist and pull. The vein should come out with the fin. Soak the crayfish in a strong salt solution for five minutes or more to further cleanse them and firm the flesh. Rinse.

Now, you must decide among several options, including whether to leave the crayfish whole or remove the tails. (The writer prefers the former.)

Option one: Decide how many crayfish your catch will serve, allowing about 24 per serving. Get on the phone and invite your friends to a crayfish bash. Refer to the cooking crayfish section of this brochure for serving instructions.

Option two: Pack uncooked, whole tails, peeled or not, in bags and freeze quickly. Peeled tails should be dipped in a solution of one-quarter cup lemon juice to one cup water to prevent discoloration. Freeze a few whole crayfish for decorating dishes you prepare later.

Option three: Cook your crayfish before you freeze them. In a large pot, bring one gallon of water and one-half cup salt to a boil. Add about two quarts of crayfish and bring back to a boil. Simmer, covered until crayfish turn red and rise to the surface — about five minutes. Remove all crayfish at once and cook additional batches in the same water. Peel the tails while they are still warm (unless you are freezing them whole). Chill cooked crayfish in ice water, then bag and freeze. Leave the nutrient-rich, flavorful fat attached to the tails if they are to be eaten fresh. Remove the fat to minimize spoilage if you are freezing the tails.

Peeling the crawfish tails
For uncooked tails, slit the bottom shell from front to fins with sharp-nosed scissors. Devein as described previously, and peel off the shell. For cooked tails, proceed as follows while the crayfish are still warm from the boil.

Separate the tail from the body by slightly twisting and pulling the tail,from the head.
Hold the tail lengthwise between thumb and forefinger and squeeze. You may hear the tail crack.
Grasp the lower tailfin pads from the side and loosen by lifting up and pulling around the meat. This piece can easily be pulled off and discarded.
Firmly grasp the last segment and tailfin with the thumb and forefinger of one hand.
Gently pull the meat out of the shell with the other hand. The vein will pull free from the meat.

Appetizing tidbits
Inside the head of the crayfish on either side are two pockets of a substance called the "butter." It is brilliant yellow or orange in color and, used in recipes calling for butter, improves both appearance and flavor. To remove the butter, open the crayfish head slightly and lift the butter out with a small spoon. It should be used immediately because it spoils quickly even when frozen.

Article Source: http://crawfish.mobi/

Red Claw Crayfish (Cherax quadricarinatus)

2008-12-23T08:54:00.003+07:00

Red claw crayfish (Australian crayfish, Cherax quadricarinatus) should be very similar in culture methods and economic data to the freshwater shrimp (Macrobrachium rosenbergii). However, there are several differences. One difference between the two species is that red claw will, at the present time, cost more for stocking-size individuals, due to the location (Belize) of the hatchery.

Persons in the U.S. who sell red claw generally produce small numbers of individuals (2200-1,000) and these are not sufficient numbers to stock even a small pond. Another difference is that red claw can spawn in freshwater, not seawater as the freshwater shrimp requires.

Thirdly, red claw do not undergo larval stages like freshwater shrimp and can ear a pelleted diet after being released from the female. These last two characteristics of red claw make them easier for a producer to establish his/her own hatchery.

A drawback to red claw juvenile production is their much lower fecundity rate compared to the freshwater shrimp. Red claw females generally produce from 100 to 1000 juveniles per female; however, survival is high because they do not have larval stages.

A fifth difference between the two species is that red claw can be sold to the aquarium industry where they are highly desired because of their colorful shell. Aquarium industry can pay a supplier up to $2 per inch for a small (1-3 inches) red claw to be sold as an aquatic pet.

A sixth difference is that red claw can tolerate somewhat cooler water temperatures than the freshwater shrimp so that the growing season could be increased. However, like the freshwater shrimp, red claw die when water temperatures decline to 50oF; therefore, they should not pose a threat to native crayfish species in Kentucky, nor do they burrow.

Lastly, red claw can be grown in tanks somewhat more easily than the freshwater shrimp due to its less cannibalistic nature if shelters are provided. Red claw offer another alternative for Kentucky producers who desire to grow them and/or start a hatchery operation.

Article Source:
http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Perch,Yellow.htm

YELLOW PERCH (Perca fluvescens)

2008-12-22T09:10:00.002+07:00

The yellow perch is a highly valued food fish in the north-central region of the United States. Commercial harvests of yellow perch from the Great Lakes and Canada have failed to keep pace with market demands. This has resulted in high market value (up to $12 per pound for fillets, retail). Consumer demand for yellow perch has generated interest in the development of economical cultural methods.

The yellow perch is considered a coolwater species. A recent study at Kentucky State University demonstrated that the optimum temperature for growth of yellow perch to be 75 degrees F, closely matching summer (June-October) water temperatures in ponds in Kentucky.

Previous research at KSU with yellow perch has also indicated that high stocking densities may be advantageous by stimulating feeding activity therefore allowing for maximum growth. Yellow perch may have potential for use under cage culture conditions. Yellow perch should be fed a high quality floating diet containing approximately 40% protein and 10% fat and should be fed to satiation twice daily.

Yellow perch are amenable to pond culture and should be considered as a species having culture potential in Kentucky. Pond production of yellow perch should take approximately 18 months to harvest size (0.25 pound) in Kentucky. Fingerling costs are high when dealing with genetically small fish such as yellow perch; for example yellow perch fingerlings cost $0.25.

If four fingerlings are required to produce one pound of fish at harvest, fingerling costs would be $1.00 per pound of yellow perch produced. Processing costs would also be higher. Some obstacles related to the culture potential of yellow perch in Kentucky are that markets within Kentucky are currently limited, mainly due to a lack of consumer awareness.

Also, yellow perch are not indigenous to most of Kentucky and the Department of Fish and Wildlife are concerned about the potential of introducing yellow perch in public waters.

Article Source: http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Perch,Yellow.htm

Red Swamp Crayfish-Procambarus clakii (Girard)

2008-12-22T09:01:00.001+07:00

Adults of this species are colored dark red (nearly black on the carapace), and have a wedge-shaped black stripe on the abdomen. Juveniles are a uniform gray, sometimes overlain by dark wavy lines. The pincers are narrow and long. The carapace is not separated at the middle by a space (areola). The carapace is conspicuously granular (roughened) in adults. The rostrum has lateral spines or notches near its tip. Adults are about 2.2 to 4.7 inches in length.

The red swamp crayfish is the most abundant large crayfish in many swamps, sloughs and sluggish ditches of the Lowlands. It generally avoids streams and ditches with strong flow, where it is replaced by the White River crayfish. The red swamp crayfish burrows during periods of drought or cold.

This crayfish most closely resembles the White River crayfish, which differs most obviously in having an areola. Young of the White River crayfish usually have spots on the carapace.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Grey-Speckled Crayfish-Orconectes palmeri (Faxon)

2008-12-22T08:57:00.002+07:00

This crayfish is gray with numerous greenish-black speckles and blotches on the pincers, carapace and abdomen. A pair of large blotches are present near the back of the head, and another pair occur near the junction of the carapace and abdomen. The fingers often have conspicuous cream-yellow tips. The carapace is not separated at its middle by a space (areola). Adults are about 1.4 to 2.6 inches in length.

This crayfish occurs widely in the Lowlands of southeastern Missouri and penetrates into adjacent sections of the Ozarks along the major streams. It is restricted to permanent-flowing waters, occurring among tree roots and organic debris, and beneath roots.

The gray-speckled crayfish is the only common Orconectes in the Lowlands. Other typical crayfish of the region have longer, more slender pincers, and none have the pattern of dark paired blotches described above.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Can I keep aquatic plants with my goldfish?

2008-12-21T09:55:00.002+07:00

It is difficult to raise live plants in a goldfish tank owing to two reasons:

1. Goldfish uproot and eat up live plants.
2. Commonly available aquatic plants are not tropical plants that can survive in a tropical tank with the goldfish.

Plants not only add beauty to your tank, they also thrive on fish waste –ammonia and nitrates- and remove them from the tank making the habitat cleaner for the fish. You therefore need to create conditions where the plants and fish can survive in harmony. When plants don’t thrive, they rot and pollute the tank. New plants also bring in infection, so you need to disinfect your plants before introducing them in your system.

Some plants can thrive in the tropical habitat of goldfish and can also withstand nibbling of the goldfish. They are:

1. Rooted plants: Anubias, Crinum thaianum (onion plant), Echinodorus (sword plants), Elodea (anacharis), Giant Vallisneria, Hygrophila difformis (water wisteria), Mayaca fluviatilis, Microsorium pteropus (Java fern) and Nymphoides aquatica (banana plant).
2. Floating or rooted: Ceratophyllum submersum (hornwort) -floating plant with no roots, Ceratopteris thalictroides (water sprite)- best grown floating, Limnobium laevigatum (frogbit), Duck weed and Salvinia auriculata.

Encouraging plant growth
Selection of plant is the first most important step. Unless your plant is resistant to goldfish mishandling it won’t survive. The other challenge is tropical climate and temperate water. Strong root system will also help in survival.

These plants need lot of light i.e. more than 1 or 2-lamp setup. Overall amount of light should be much more than what is provided in a normal tank. But lots of light will also stimulate the algae to grow, thus, you need to control the light to perhaps 11 hours a day. You should also keep the tank away from direct sunlight that encourages algae growth.

Fertilize your plants lightly with microelements but avoid phosphates that give tremendous boost to algae growth.

Controlling algae
Algae indicate a healthy tank but wild growth of algae is harmful for your system. If the algae have gone wild, scrape it off when you change the water. Other than that you must keep the tank away from sunlight, avoid phosphates and never over fertilize.

Disinfecting plants
A diluted solution of bleach (1:19) in water can be used to get rid of snails, pathogens, algae and harmful bacteria on the plants. Dip for two minutes and then rinse it carefully before introducing it in your tank.

Keeping plants with goldfish is a challenge but when done successfully what you have is a picturesque tank.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/plantsandgoldfish.html

Can you tell the Sex of your Goldfish?

2008-12-21T09:49:00.002+07:00

Everyone wants to know what is the sex of their goldfish unless they keep them only as decoration pieces! More often than not, a true enthusiast would want to breed goldfish and then it is imperative to know their sex. There are several methods of determining the sex of your fish but it is still difficult for most people to be sure till the fish attain the breeding stage.

During spawning
Male goldfish are easier to spot than the female during spawning. They develop tubercles or white pimples along the pectoral fins and gill operculum. The female become a little asymmetric, especially around their abdomen. They look swollen in this condition.

Post spawning and after a few spawning seasons, some males retain roughness on their pectoral rays. It is difficult to spot this roughness and people who feel confused should take solace in the fact that not many people can distinguish between male and female goldfish!

Following are some methods that can be used to recognize the sexes but even these are useless unless the fish are at least a year old, i.e., have attained sexual maturity.

1. Midline ridge: male goldfish have a ridge running through the back of pelvic fins to their vent opening on the underside. The ridge is either completely missing or smaller in females.
2. Firmness of abdomen: The area between pelvic and anal fins is pliable for females but very firm for males.
3. Shape of the vent: Though difficult to figure out, the female vent is rounder and convex, whereas the male vent is thinner and concave.
4. Shape of the pectoral fins: Male pectoral fins are pointed with stiffer leading ray and female pectorals are rounded, shorter with finer front fin ray.
5. Features: females are brighter colored and are more active. This could be a difficult way of pointing out a female but you could try!
6. Check out: One theory says that you can introduce a known female into the tank and watch for the reaction of fish. Males will check out the new fish but the females will show no interest!

The only way you can learn to spot male and female goldfish is by closely observing known males and females and noticing their various traits. A pet shop could be a nice place to learn this.

During spawning season it will be easier because the male will follow and nudge the female relentlessly sometimes even bruising and injuring the female. Finally, it’s only your experience that will give you any degree of confidence of judging the sexes by looking at them in a tank. Difficult but definitely not impossible!

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishsex.html

PADDLEFISH (Polyodon spathula )

2008-12-21T09:05:00.002+07:00

Paddlefish, spoonfish, spoonbill cat, and Polyodon spathula are among several names given to this unique prehistoric fish. The paddlefish is the largest (over 200 pounds, six-feet long) freshwater fish in the United States and is found in 26 states that have large streams, rivers, and impoundments within the Mississippi River basin and adjacent Gulf Coastal drainages.

Paddlefish are highly valued for its black eggs (roe) processed into caviar and its boneless, firm, white meat. However, they are currently available only from the wild populations. Overexploitation and contamination by organochlorine pollutants (i.e. PCB) have required that many state agencies close down this valuable fishery. Commercial paddlefish farming is necessary to meet the market demand for its caviar and meat and alleviate harvest pressure from the wild paddlefish fishery.

Paddlefish have many outstanding characteristics for aquacultural development as a food fish in Kentucky and other states of the United States. Paddlefish filter feed on zooplankton throughout life, are long-lived (greater than 20 years), and grow rapidly (up to 10 pounds per year) reaching sizes up to 200 pounds.

They can be harvested by selective gill nets or by seining. Paddlefish can be propagated artificially and fingerlings raised intensively up to 14 inches in ponds, then grown for meat and roe intensively in ponds with catfish or extensively in reservoirs. Paddlefish meat is firm and boneless with a beef or pork-like texture, and it is also similar to sturgeon in taste and texture.

Artificial Propagation

Currently, broodstock are obtained from wild sources. Typically, males are smaller (by one-third to one-half in weight) than females, and have tubercles on their head and opercular flaps that feel like sandpaper. In contrast, mature females have few, to no tubercles, and the abdomen is round and extended during the pre-spawning period.

Broodstock must be held in circular tanks (8 foot) in the hatchery. Water temperature of 60 to 65°F, flow rate of 2 gallon per minute and water saturated with oxygen are optimal conditions. Broodstock should be injected intraperitoneally with hormones to induce spawning. For milt collection, tubing attached to a syringe is inserted into the urogenital pore and collected from the fish.

Large volumes of milt can be obtained from one male. Milt from two to three males should be used to fertilize the eggs so as to increase genetic diversity. Milt is checked microscopically and 75-100% of the spermatozoa should be motile.

Milt can be collected several hours before use and stored in sealed containers on wet ice. For collection of eggs, any one of several methods can be used: hand-stripping, caesarian section, or the Minimally Invasive Surgical Technique, MIST.

Hand-stripping is labor intensive and often requires three individuals 8-10 hours at about 30-minute intervals to remove the total volume of eggs. Caesarian section is a relatively quick surgical method (30 minutes) to remove eggs through a 3-4 in abdominal incision; however, suturing is time consuming and muscular stress on the incision usually results in poor retention and less than 25% survival of broodstock.

The MIST is minimally invasive and permits quick removal of ovulated eggs and requires much less handling time than the other methods. This method of egg removal involves a small incision in the dorsal area of the oviduct which permits direct stripping of eggs (10 minute) from the body cavity through the gonopore, and bypasses the oviductal funnels.

Greater than 90% survival of broodstock is expected. The eggs should be fertilized using the "wet method". Milt is added to water at a 1:200 ratio (milt to water) and then immediately poured onto the eggs. The fertilized eggs are stirred for one minute then coated with Fuller’s earth suspension for 20 minutes.

The eggs are then rinsed free of Fuller’s earth, volumetrically measured and loaded into McDonald jars at about 70,000 eggs per 2-gallon incubator. Larvae hatch in approximately 6 days when eggs are incubated at 65° F. Larvae must be held for another 5 to 6 days before they will consume food.

Nursery Phase

Larvae can be grown in fertilized earthen ponds or in tanks. In ponds, live food such (Daphnia spp.) must be present in order for the paddlefish larvae to have appropriate food until they are large enough to accept extruded pellets. In tank culture, paddlefish larvae can be trained to feed only on prepared diets (i.e. RangenR Trout/Salmon diets).

For pond culture, site preparation should begin about two weeks before spawning. Ponds should be drained and dried. After fish have been spawned, the pond should be flooded with well water or from filtered reservoir water. Rice bran is recommended as the organic fertilizer for paddlefish nursery ponds to promote zooplankton i.e. (Daphnia).

Once the fish reach about 3.5 inches, they can be trained to eat a 1/16-inch extruded pellet (45% protein). Survival rates can range from about 50 to 80%. It takes approximately 6 weeks for the paddlefish to reach about 5 inches at which time they are able to filter feed.

If fish are trained on a prepared diet, they can remain in the ponds and will continue to grow up to 0.5 pounds and 14 inches in about six months.

Article Source:http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Paddlefish.HTM

CRAPPIE (Pomoxis nigromaculatus)

2008-12-21T09:00:00.003+07:00

Black and white crappie belong to the family of sunfishes. Crappie are popular game fish in many parts of the United States including Kentucky. These fish are being evaluated as candidates for commercial aquaculture due to the following criteria:
a) strong consumer recognition and acceptance (black and white crappie are highly prized panfish in many states)
b) good growth rate in optimal conditions
c) trainability to prepared diets, and
d) ease of spawning in captivity

The principal obstacle to commercial culture of crappie involved their high rate of reproduction which often leads to overcrowding and stunting. Both black and white crappie reach sexual maturity at the age of one year and can spawn repeatedly in production ponds. The presence of large numbers of small fish in ponds decreases the effectiveness of prepared diet utilization, and causes stunting.

To allow successful use of crappie in commercial production, methods for preventing uncontrolled reproduction are being developed. This may be achieved by rearing mono-sex progenies obtained by means of genetic methods (induced gynogenesis and sex reversal). The investigations of this have been initiated recently at the Aquaculture Research Center of KSU.

Article Source: http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Crappie.htm

CATFISH (Ictalurus punctatus )

2008-12-20T10:00:00.002+07:00

There are presently approximately 50 commercial catfish farms in Kentucky according to a survey done in 1998. In Kentucky, catfish farming almost always involves the culture of channel catfish (Ictalurus punctatus).

Catfish spawn in late spring/early summer. Since catfish spawn three to six weeks later in Kentucky, the transportation of eggs from hatcheries in states farther south can functionally increase the growing season and produce larger fingerlings by the end of summer.

It takes about 5 to 8 days for hatching and another 4 days for the fry to use up their yolk sac energy supply. The fry become swim-up fry and are fed in tanks approximately every 2 hours for about a week.

They are then stocked into fertilized nursery ponds that have an abundant natural food source. (Fry can also be stocked into nursery ponds immediately after becoming swim-up fry). In the pond, the fry are also fed a finely ground, high protein feed such as salmon starter.

Fry mature into fingerlings and reach approximately six to nine inches in length by the end of the first growing season when they are stocked at 40,000 per acre. Catfish fingerlings are grown in Kentucky

but are often hauled in from other states farther south and stocked into Kentucky ponds. Catfish fingerlings can be sold to commercial fish growers or to recreational pond owners directly or by way of live haulers. Good business is generated by catfish fingerling producers who haul fingerlings to recreational pond owners.

In exchange for hauling small loads to the pond owner and providing technical advice, the hauler can charge more for the fingerlings, thus maximizing his or her profit. Fingerlings of 6-9 inches are stocked into grow-out ponds at approximately 3,000 per acre if aeration is available; or 1,000 per acre without aeration.

Stocking of grow-out ponds can be in the fall of the fingerling year or spring of the grow-out year. The catfish will gain more weight during the fall months when they are stocked at the lower density. In addition, they will be in the pond and ready to start growing at the first sign of warm weather the following spring.

Often times growers’ plans to stock in April are delayed until they can find an available source of fingerlings. This frequently delays stocking until May, and the valuable early-season growth opportunity is lost.

In grow-out ponds the catfish are fed a 28% to 32% protein feed containing soybean, corn, wheat, vitamin and mineral supplements, and usually fish meal. After they are fed, all the feed will be eaten within 20 minutes. This is approximately 1% to 3% of their body weight depending on water temperature and the size of the fish.

Ponds ranging in size from a fraction of an acre to 20 acres or larger are used to grow out catfish. Recent trends in large catfish producing regions in the southeastern United States are for 10 to 15 acre ponds to be used to maximize management efficiency as well as being economical in pond construction costs.

Ponds in Kentucky are typically smaller than this; there is a trend for the construction of ponds approximately 5 acres in size in the Purchase region of the commonwealth. Ponds in less flat regions are usually significantly smaller than 5 acres.

Water quality in commercial catfish production ponds must be monitored for water quality to ensure that the fish not only stay healthy, but are able to grow most efficiently. Water quality test kits are recommended for use by fish farmers. Workshops are held by the Cooperative Extension System to teach the proper use of these kits.

Ammonia should be monitored at least once a week and nitrite should be checked about 2 to 3 times a week. High nitrite can be neutralized by adding salt (NaCl) to the pond water, and it is highly recommended that catfish farmers maintain a prophylactic level of salt in their ponds in case nitrite concentrations rise unexpectedly. In some parts of the commonwealth, large quantities of agricultural limestone are needed to add hardness and alkalinity (buffering capacity) to the water. This helps to prevent drastic pH fluctuations, which can be stressful to the fish.

Article Source: http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Catfish.htm

COMMON CARP (Cyprinus carpio)

2008-12-20T09:52:00.001+07:00

Common carp is the main aquaculture species in many European and Asian countries. This fish has several advantages that made it so popular for commercial culture:
a) very fast growth rate
b) high tolerance and easiness to handle
c) ability to be raised in high density and to give high production per square unit
d) ability to utilize prepared diet with relatively low content of protein, and
e) occurrence of highly productive strains and breeds reared during a long-term process of selection and domestication.
Most carp is sold on the market as live fish or as whole carcass.

In contrast to many other countries, common carp is not a popular edible in the United States. The main obstacle for acceptance of carp as edible fish in the United States is the presence of many intramuscular bones in the muscles. U.S. consumers do not like to eat fish meat with small bones and prefer boneless fish fillet.

Possibly, a change in consumers’ attitudes to carp may be achieved by application new types of carp meat processing. The following is suggested:

a) The using of fillet-machine which cuts the bones. Such machines for producing filets have been constructed recently and now are being used in several European countries.

b) Process carp meat by smoking and retort (canning) using special recipes (using tomato sauce, etc.) as is used in some European countries.

It is possible to initially develop optimal ways of carp meat processing by using fish caught from natural reservoirs and lakes in Kentucky. If market development proved successful, information on commercial rearing of carp in ponds is well developed and could be used immediately.

Forty percent of the world aquaculture production is from carp species. An export market for Kentucky raised carp may be possible.

Article Source: http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Carp,Common.htm

Shrimp Crayfish-Orconectes lancifer (Hagen

2008-12-20T09:48:00.001+07:00

This medium-small crayfish is light reddish brown to gray, thickly dusted with darker specks. It is characterized by an unusually long rostrum, with the tip (acumen) longer than the base. The carapace is not separated at its middle by a space (areola). The pincers are narrow and weak. Adults are about 2 to 3 inches in length.

The shrimp crayfish has been collected in Missouri only from the lower St. Francis River and Wolf Bayou. It occurs in the deep, permanent water of lowland rivers and oxbows, and has been taken from among tree roots and other cover along the banks.

The color pattern, shape of the rostrum, and absence of an areola will distinguish this crayfish from other species within its range. The gray-speckled crayfish is somewhat similar in appearance, but has heavier pincers and a shorter rostrum.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Shield Crayfish-Faxonella clypeata (Hay)

2008-12-19T10:17:00.001+07:00

This small, tan crayfish has a pattern of paired blackish dashes along the surface of the carapace and abdomen. The pincers are narrow and cylindrical, with short, abruptly tapering fingers. The rostrum is broad, and without lateral spines or notches. The reproductive structures (gonopods) of males have long, slender tops, and the right and left tips cross each other diagonally. The areola (space in the middle of carapace) is very broad. Adults are about 1.1 to 2 inches in length.

The shield crayfish occurs at scattered localities in the Lowlands of southeastern Missouri. Specimens are collected in winter and early spring from intermittent creeks and seasonally flooded sloughs and swamps. This species retreats to burrows as water levels recede.

Most other small crayfish found within the range of the shield crayfish (dwarf crayfish and the young of other species) have a narrower rostrum, with lateral spines or notches near its tip. Many have the areola narrow or absent.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Dwarf Crayfish-Cambarellus shufeldtii (Faxon), Cambarellus puer Hobbs

2008-12-18T09:18:00.001+07:00

The dwarf crayfish are appropriately named; adults range in length from 0.8 to 1.3 inches. The two species can be distinguished by examining the male reproductive structures, which are straight in C. shufeldtii and curved in C. puer. Both are reddish brown to gray, with a paired series of dark, wavy stripes or dashed lines along the dorsal surface. The tail fan usually has a dark central blotch. The pincers are narrow and long.

These small crayfish occur sporadically throughout the Lowlands, and C. shufeldtii occurs on the floodplain of the Upper Mississippi River. They are found in shallow, temporary pools during wet seasons, retreating to cells they dig in mud or moist soil during periods of drought.

The dwarf crayfish can be distinguished from the young of other Lowland crayfish by the conspicuous dark pigment in the tail fan, and the lengthwise dark stripes or lines on the carapace. Also, the rostrum is flat, without a central troughlike depression.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Neosho Midget Crayfish-Orconectes macrus Williams

2008-12-16T10:14:00.001+07:00

This small crayfish is a subdued mottled brown, with a prominent black band crossing the carapace near its junction with the abdomen. The body is stout, and the pincers are broad and powerful. Adults are about 0.9 to 2 inches in length.

The Neosho midget crayfish has a very localized distribution in the Spring and Elk river systems of the southeastern Ozarks. In this area it is one of the most abundant crayfish. It lives in short burrows that it digs in the bottoms of gravelly riffles.

This is the only small brown crayfish that occurs in the Spring and Elk stream systems. Other species in these drainages achieve a larger size, are more greenish, and have conspicuous black rings or whitish tubercles on their pincers.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

William's Crayfish-Orconectes williamsi Fitzpatrick

2008-12-16T10:10:00.001+07:00

This is a small, rather plain crayfish without bright colors or bold markings. Its most distinctive feature is a pale, vase-shaped zone along the middle of the dark olive-tan carapace. The pincers rae broad and powerful. Adults are about 1.3 to 2 inches in length.

Williams' crayfish occurs in the White River basin of Arkansas, and has been recorded in Roaring River and a few other streams of southern Barry, Stone and Taney counties. It lives in burrows in gravelly and sandy substrate beneath rocks.

Similar species within the range of Williams' crayfish are the Ozark crayfish, which has numerous dark specks on the pincers and abdomen, and the ringed crayfish, which has prominent black or brown rings near the tips of the fingers. These species reach a larger size than Williams' crayfish.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

HYBRID BLUEGILL (Lepomis macrochirus)

2008-12-15T09:04:00.002+07:00

In recent years the interest in culture of bluegill hybrids has increased greatly. Much of the attention has been focused on the hybrid produced when the male bluegill (Lepomis macrochirus) are crossed with green sunfish (L. Cyanellus). This hybrid has been singled out among the many "bream" species based on its aggressive nature, willingness to accept artificial diets, and skewed sex ratios (greater than or equal to 90 per cent male).

This has resulted in in substantial production for stocking into recreational ponds. In Kentucky hybrid bluegill have been evaluated, and show promise, for use in pay lakes (fee fishing). In the north central region of the U.S., hybrid bluegill have also been identified as a species of primary interest for food fish production.

Compared to other interspecific hybrids, such as hybrid striped bass, hybrid bluegill are relatively easy to produce. No hormone treatments are required and pond spawning is relatively productive and reliable. One of the most important factors in the production of hybrid bluegill is proper identification of both sexes used in the cross. Improper sexing of even one or two fish can ruin the production of an entire pond.

Bluegill males need to be at least two years old and greater than or equal to 1/4 pound in size. Green sunfish females may be much smaller. Broodstock are normally stocked in late winter or early spring at 20-40 pairs per acre. Sex ratios are normally 1:1. Ponds should be filled at least 2-4 weeks before broods are stock. It is essential that no other fish are present in the pond at stocking.

The pond should be fertilized to produce a plankton bloom. Providing areas around the edge of the pond with fine gravel, or even gravel in nesting boxes may proved beneficial. Spawning usually occurs at 78-80°F. Fry should be observable soon after hatching.

Broodfish may be selectively removed by using a large mesh seine (based on brood size). A powder trout starter diet should be fed around the edges of the pond. Once feeding is observed particle sizes can be increased accordingly. Approximately 100,000 fry per acre may be produced. Fingerlings can reach a stocker size of 2-3 inches in 60-100 days.

Transport of 2-3 inch fish is usually less stressful once temperatures cool in the fall. For pond stocking fish are now ready to sell. Wholesale price for 2-3 inches hybrid bluegill is approximately $0.05 each with retail prices of $0.25-$0.40 each.

For use in pay lakes, or possibly as a food fish, at least a second year of growth is required. Fingerlings are thinned or stocked in the fall or spring at 5,000-10,000 fish per acre. These fish are fed all they will eat of a floating trout or hybrid striped bass diet of 36-42% protein.

Based on research at Kentucky State University approximately 3,000 pounds per acre of fish averaging 1/3 pound each can be produced during this second year.

Article Source:

http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Bluegill,Hybrid.htm

Field trials of this size of fish in pay lakes indicates excellent acceptance by customers and allows the pay lakes to diversify their offerings. One cooperating pay lake operator stated a willingness to pay $2.50 per pound for 1/3 pound hybrid bluegill. Their potential as a food fish has not been well investigated but is being researched in the north central region.

HYBRID STRIPED BASS ( HSTB )

2008-12-15T08:58:00.002+07:00

Hybrid striped bass (HSTB) are produced by crossing striped bass (Morone saxatilis) with white bass (M. chrysops). There are two crosses produced: the original cross (also called palmetto bass) is made by using female striped bass and male white bass; the reciprocal cross (also called sunshine bass) is made when female white bass and male striped bass are used.

Hybrid striped bass require warm temperatures (68-86
degrees F) for rapid growth and thus, many pond-based farms have been located in the southern United States.

In 1992, approximately 60% of all HSTB production occurred in this region. However, HSTB can be farmed in a wide variety of culture systems, including earthen ponds, raceways, cages, and large cylindrical tanks. In pond systems, ground and surface waters are used and the ambient temperatures control the fish’s health and growth rate.

In tank or raceway culture systems, heated water can be utilized and recirculated. These recirculating systems are usually indoors and can be developed in areas where pond culture may not be feasible or where natural water temperatures may be too cold to allow for optimal growth rates.

Massachusetts, for example, is a leading producer of HSTB, almost exclusively through the use of recirculating systems. Hybrid striped bass culture can be divided into four phases of production: Phase I culture, the hatchery phase, where the hatched fry are grown for 30-60 days to reach a 1-3 inches fingerling, Phase II culture where phase I fish are grown for between 5 to 9 months to grow to 3 to 10 inch fingerlings, and Phase III culture which is basically a grow-out of fish to market-size (1.5-2.5 pounds) or to adult fish.

For Phase I culture, there are many variables that need to be taken into consideration when growing hatched fry (larvae) to a small fingerling such as pond preparation, water quality management, and handling of fry. All these will differ based on method of production, desired intensity of production, and edaphic conditions of site.

In general, 5 to 10 day old fry (post-hatch) are stocked into ponds at rates of 50,000 to 60,000 fry per acre. However, many facilities growing fish for stock enhancement will stock up to 250,000 fry per acre. For commercial food-fish production, a lower stocking rate will allow for more rapid growth.

Survival of fry-to-fingerlings can be low (less than 20%), however, values between 25-60% are typical. Fry should be stocked into ponds at night to minimize stress and when water temperatures are 66°F. Oxygen level of the pond should be recorded twice daily (a.m. and p.m.) and ammonia, nitrite, pH, and alkalinity measured twice per week.

The ponds are generally fertilized one to two weeks prior to stocking with inorganic or organic fertilizers to aid in the growth of zooplankton which the fry eat. Fry generally will eat the zooplankton in the pond, but supplemental feeding may allow for increased growth and survival of fry.

When fish are about 21 days old, a high-protein salmon starter diet is fed 1 to 3 times per day, 7 days per week, at a rate of between 1-5 pounds per acre per day for the first week, and increased up to 10-15 pounds per acre per day, thereafter. It is generally recommended not to exceed 30 pounds acre per day.

Article Source: http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Bass,Hybrid.htm

BAITFISH (Notemigonus crysoleucas )

2008-12-14T11:14:00.003+07:00

entucky has several large reservoirs and lakes as well as many smaller lakes, thousands of miles of rivers, and over 135,000 farm ponds. These countless shorelines and waterways offer recreational and sport fishing opportunities for Kentucky residents and visiting tourists. One thing is certain, when our fishermen sit back and relax to "wet a line," they need to bait their hooks.

Baitfish are usually purchased at local or area bait shops (retailers). Most of the minnows sold in the United States are raised on fish farms in Arkansas and several other southern states. It is estimated that in 1989, Arkansas had 27,800 acres of ponds dedicated to the production of baitfish or minnows, solely.

The income generated from these baitfish was estimated at over $25 million. By 1995, Arkansas baitfish production had increased to 28,900 acres with farm gate sales of over $47 million. Today, baitfish aquaculture ranks fourth with more than 60,000 acres of production in the United States. Annual retail sales of baitfish in Canada and the U.S. have been estimated at $1 billion.

The word "baitfish" is a common term used to describe small fish used as bait for sport fishing. Several species of fish are raised as bait: golden shiners (Notemigonus crysoleucas), goldfish (Carassius auratus), and fathead minnows (Pimephales promelas). Golden shiners are the primary species that is farmed for bait (75% of sales in Arkansas).

The techniques used to produce the different types of baitfish are similar. Golden shiner fry for stocking are produced on the farm in broodfish ponds. Mature adults are stocked into broodfish ponds at approximately 400-500 pound of fish per acre. Spawning mats are placed in shallow water around the pond’s edge at 100 mats per acre when water temperatures have warmed to 65°F.

When the mats have been covered with eggs, they are transferred to fry-rearing ponds (50-100 mats per acre) to allow hatching. After the fry have hatched, the mats are removed from ponds, dried and stored.

Commercially prepared feed is offered to golden shiners in rearing ponds at an initial daily rate of 5 pounds per acre. Feeding rates are increased to 35 pounds per acre by the end of the production season. Pond management includes liming and fertilization, and chemical applications to control diseases if they occur.

Water losses due to evaporation are replaced by pumping from wells. Baitfish are harvested by seining the entire pond or by seining a small area of the pond where fish have been congregated for feeding. With good management and carefully controlled daily feeding, minnow harvests of 600 to 800 pounds per acres can be achieved.

Baitfish are transferred from seine nets to tanks mounted on trucks, using buckets and dip nets. Fish are stocked into transport tanks at a rate of 1-2 pounds of fish per gallon of water. The fish are then transported to a holding facility where they are placed in concrete tanks.

They are held in these tanks for 24 hours to allow acclimation to crowding in a small volume of water. Baitfish are then graded according to size (number of fish per pound) and delivered to wholesalers or retailers. Small minnows or "crappie bait" contain 125 to 333 fish per pound.

Estimating an average yield of 400 pounds per acre and a price of $2.75 per pound, annual returns for a 160-acre farm would be approximately $137 per acre with an annual income of $21,920.

While all of the baitfish species mentioned can be farmed in Kentucky, reliable and consistent markets are the most important consideration for baitfish production in Kentucky. Producers must decide whether they will sell to wholesalers, deliver directly to retailers, or raise, haul, and sell their crop personally.

Baitfish sales in the United States are characterized by organized marketing which is structured to prevent entry of newcomers into the industry. These large markets are controlled by large producers who have advanced experience and technology.

Also, baitfish producers must be aware of oversupply, shortage, changes in weather patterns that affect sport fishing, and the temporary whims of fishermen concerning "the ideal bait."

Large producers and wholesalers make weekly deliveries to retail baitfish distributors and bait shops surrounding Kentucky’s larger lakes and reservoirs. However, it is impractical for them to make return trips to an individual bait shop that is having a busy weekend and who runs short on bait late on a Saturday afternoon.

"Topping off" at these bait shops with sudden and heavy, weekend fishing traffic could provide new markets for small, local baitfish producers. Rather than attempting to supply a bait retailer’s weekly minnow needs for an entire season, small farmers could replenish or "top off" weekend shortfalls at several area bait shops (i.e., weekend route sales at multiple locations).

The best markets are located near large urban areas and newly established lakes. However, these two conditions rarely occur together. Isolated fishing areas that are difficult for large producers to access provide market opportunities for small, local baitfish farmers.

It is possible that a farm with 60 to 70 acres of ponds could provide a baitfish producer with a reasonable income if the farmer could produce 800 pounds per acre of high quality, small baitfish and sell directly to retailers.

Small-scale, niche marketing appears to be the best opportunity for bait producers in Kentucky. Direct retail sales in remote fishing areas could provide additional market openings throughout the commonwealth.

Kentucky minnow farmers should start small and expand their acreage as their markets show stable and steady growth. To become a successful Kentucky baitfish producer, you must establish solid markets and provide a high quality product.

Article Source:
http://www.ksuaquaculture.org/Species/Baitfish.htm

Saddlebacked Crayfish-Orconectes medius (Faxon)

2008-12-14T10:24:00.001+07:00

The most obvious features of this crayfish are the bold blackish band (saddle mark) across the hind margin of the carapace, and the absence of dark blotches or specks. Another bar crosses the head just in front of the cervical groove (groove separating head from thorax). The pincers are broad and powerful. Adults are about 1.4 to 2.6 inches in length.

The saddlebacked crayfish occurs only in the Ozark Region of Missouri, where it is found in the Meramec River and Big River drainages. In many small streams of that region it is the most abundant crayfish. This crayfish digs shallow burrows beneath rocks.

Similar species within the range of this species are the golden crayfish, which has a darker abdomen and red on many body parts, and the Big River crayfish, in which the anterior saddle spans the cervical groove.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Golden Crayfish-Orconectes luteus (Creaser)

2008-12-13T08:41:00.001+07:00

This wide-ranging species is quite variable in color, but is typically olive-green suffused with golden yellow. The antennae and many body parts are trimmed with bright red. A dark band crosses the head just in front of the cervical groove, and another crosses the carapace at its junction with the abdomen. The tips of the fingers are red, bordered in some populations by conspicuous black bands. Adults of this moderately large crayfish are about 1 to 3.4 inches in length.

The golden crayfish is one of the most abundant and widely distributed crayfish in our state, occurring throughout the northern Ozarks, in Current River, and in prairie streams of northeastern Missouri. It lives in streams with permanent flow, over rocky bottoms and in beds of emergent aquatic plants.

This crayfish is distinguished from most other crayfish within its range by its olive-green and red coloration without conspicuous blotches or spots.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Spothanded Crayfish-Orconectes punctimanus (Creaser)

2008-12-13T08:38:00.002+07:00

The most distinctive feature of this moderately large crayfish is the presence of a conspicuous black spot on each pincer near the base of the movable finger. The carapace is reddish brown or olive-brown, with a narrow crescent-shaped dark bar across its hind margin. The abdomen is olive-green, with bright red outlining the free margins of all its segments. The pincers, carapace and abdomen are without conspicuous dark specks or blotches. Adults are about 1.3 to 4.4 inches in length.

This crayfish occurs only in the Ozark Region of Missouri and Arkansas. It occurs in all principal drainages except the Osage and Neosho (Spring-Elk). In the White river basin it is confined to the North Fork and Bryant Creek. This crayfish occurs in clear, permanent-flowing streams, in backwaters and along the margins of pools.

The conspicuous black spot on each pincer readily distinguishes the spothanded crayfish from other species within its range.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Long Pincered Crayfish-Orconectes longidigitus (Faxon)

2008-12-11T08:46:00.000+07:00

This large, colorful crayfish is characterized by very long, slender blue-green pincers that are studded with prominent yellowish knobs. The carapace and abdomen are olive-tan trimmed with bright red. This is our largest native crayfish, with adults achieving a length of 6 inches or more. It reaches maturity at a length of about 3.5 inches.

The longpincered crayfish occurs only in the White River basin of southern Missouri and northern Arkansas. It lives in the pools of Ozark streams along bluffs where large slabs of rock provide numerous crevices in which it spends the daylight hours. At night it emerges to forage over the stream bottom. Substantial populations of this species also occur in Table Rock Lake.

The long, blue-green pincers and large size distinguish this crayfish from other species within its range. The superficially similar spothanded crayfish has a conspicuous spot on each pincer at the base of the movable finger.

Big Creek Crayfish-Orconectes peruncus (Creaser)

2008-12-09T08:55:00.002+07:00

This is a moderately small, brown crayfish without bright colors. Blackish specks and blotches occur over the dorsal surface of the body and pincers (specks most numerous on abdomen). The pincers are moderately broad and heavy. Adults are about 1 to 2.2 inches in length.

The Big Creek crayfish has a very localized distribution which is centered in Big Creek and its tributaries on the west side of the St. Francis River basin. Other populations occur in Clark Creek and Twelve Mile Creek, direct tributaries of the St. Francis River. It lives in burrows dug in gravelly substrate beneath rocks.

The only other small brown crayfish native to the St. Francis River basin is the St. Francis River crayfish. The two species are readily separated by the shape of the male reproductive structures (gonopods), which are long and slender in the Big Creek crayfish, short and blunt in the St. Francis River crayfish. The two species have not been found at the same locality.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

St. Francis River Crayfish-Orconectes quadruncus (Creaser)

2008-12-09T08:48:00.002+07:00

This medium-small crayfish is brown, with blackish blotches and specks on the dorsal surface of the pincers and body (specks most numerous on abdomen). The pincers are often trimmed with red, and thickly set hairs (setae) are present in the gap at the base of the fingers. Adults of this rather small crayfish are about 1.2 to 2.4 inches in length.

The St. Francis River crayfish occurs only in Missouri, in the St. Francis River and its tributaries (exclusive of Big Creek and other streams supporting populations of the Big Creek crayfish). It lives in burrows dug in gravelly substrate beneath rocks.

The only other small brown crayfish within the general range of this species is the Big Creek crayfish. The two species cannot be separated with confidence without comparing the male reproductive structures (short and blunt in the St. Francis River crayfish; long and slender in the Big Creek crayfish). The two species have not been found in the same stream.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Woodland Crayfish-Orconectes hylas (Faxon)

2008-12-08T08:46:00.001+07:00

This is a stout, reddish-tan to dark brown crayfish with numerous blackish specks and blotches on the pincers, carapace and abdomen. A narrow crescent-shaped dark band extends across the carapace at its junction with the abdomen. A pair of whitish spots occur laterally on the first abdominal segment. Adults are about 1 to 2.6 inches in length.

The woodland crayfish occurs only in Missouri. It is the most abundant and generally distributed crayfish in Black River and its tributaries, and occurs sparingly in headwaters of Big River. It has been introduced into Stouts Creek in Iron County. This crayfish occupies burrows it digs beneath rocks in clear, permanent streams.

The woodland crayfish is easily distinguished from other similar species within its range by its brown coloration and blotched and speckled color pattern. It somewhat resembles the Ozark crayfish, but the two species do not occur in the same river basins.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Ringed Crayfish-Orconeces neglectus (Faxon)

2008-12-08T08:41:00.002+07:00

This is a medium-sized olive-green to reddish-tan crayfish with prominent black or brown rings around the fingers of its pincers near their tips. The pincers are often very broad and heavy (especially in males), with a broad gape between the fingers when they are closed. A dark band crosses the carapace near its junction with the abdomen. A pair of dark stripes run lengthwise along the abdomen near its lateral margins. Adults are about 1.6 to 3.6 inches in length.

This is the most abundant crayfish in streams of the White and Neosho basins. Two subspecies are recognized, O. n. neglectus in the Neosho basin, and O. n. chaenodactylus in the White River basin. This crayfish burrows in gravel beneath large rocks.

No other crayfish within the range of this species has conspicuous black rings on the fingers. The Ozark crayfish is about the same size and build, but it has numerous dark specks on the abdomen and pincers.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Ozark Crayfish-Orconectes ozarkae Williams

2008-12-06T08:05:00.001+07:00

This is a rather plain, light brown to reddish-brown crayfish with numerous black specks on the pincers and often on the abdomen as well. The pincers are broad and powerful. Adults are about 1 to 3.4 inches in length.

The Ozark crayfish occurs widely on the southern Ozarks, from Rosaring River and Flat Creek in Barry County eastward to the Little Black River in Ripley County. It seems to be absent from the North Fork and Bryant Creek.

Common, superficially similar species within the range of this crayfish are the golden crayfish and the ringed crayfish. Both of these species lack conspicuous blackish specks on the pinchers and abdomen, and the ringed crayfish has prominent brown or black rings on the fingers near their tips.

Article Source: http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Mammoth Spring Crayfish-Orconectes marchandi Hobbs

2008-12-06T07:56:00.001+07:00

This is a reddish-brown crayfish with broad, powerful pincers. The pincers have numerous blackish specks on their basal parts. The abdomen is dark rust-red without specks. The carapace is light tan, with a dark brown band crossing the back of the head and another at the junction of the carapace and abdomen. Adults are about 1.4 to 2.4 inches in length.

The Mammoth Spring crayfish has a very localized distribution near Mammoth Spring in the spring River of Arkansas and Missouri. In our state it has been collected only from Warm Fork of Spring River near Thayer.

This crayfish bears a striking resemblance to the Ozark crayfish, and both species occur in the Warm Fork. Males of the two species are easily distinguished by the shape of the reproductive structures (gonopods). The gonopod tips are long and slender in the Ozark crayfish, short and blunt in the Mammoth Spring crayfish. The Ozark crayfish is lighter tan and less reddish, especially on the pincers.

Article Source: http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Coldwater Crayfish-Orconectes eupunctus Williams

2008-12-05T10:04:00.002+07:00

This medium-small, stout crayfish has a blue-green head and pincers, and a dark rust-brown carapace. The abdomen has a pair of conspicuous white lateral spots on the first segment, and a tapering V-shaped dark central stripe. Adults are about 1.2 to 2.8 inches in length

The coldwater crayfish has a very localized distribution in the Eleven Point River and spring River of southern Missouri and Arkansas. these clear, cold rivers are fed by two of the largest Ozark springs (Greer and Mammoth). In the Eleven Point River and Greer Spring Branch this is the most abundant crayfish. It occurs over gravel substrate in swift current.

This crayfish is distinguished from other crayfish within its range by the distinctive red and green color and V-shaped central stripe on the abdomen.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Salem Cave Crayfish-Cambarus hubrichti Hobbs

2008-12-05T09:58:00.001+07:00

This crayfish is one of two (possibly three) blind, white (translucent) species that occur in subterranean waters of the Missouri Ozarks. Like the other cave crayfish, this species has long, narrow pincers and very long antennae. The carapace is separated at its middle by a wide space (areola) in the Salem cave crayfish. Adults are about 2.2 to 2.8 inches in length.

This crayfish occurs only in Missouri, in a broad area of the eastern Ozarks from Camden and Crawford counties southward to Oregon and Ripley counties. It is most often found in cave streams, and is sometimes collected at the mouths of springs.

The bristly cave crayfish (Cambarus setosus) occurs in the southwestern Ozarks. It differs from the Salem cave crayfish in having longer and more conspicuous bristles (setae) on the pincers. Also, the areola is very narrow or absent in the bristly cave crayfish.

Article Source :

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1223529

Freckled Crayfish-Cambarus maculatus Hobbs & Pflieger

2008-12-04T11:49:00.004+07:00

This powerfully built, yellowish-tan crayfish has numerous conspicuous black spots on its pincers, carapace and abdomen. Adults are about 1.9 to 3.3 inches in length. The freckled crayfish has not been formally described and lacks a valid scientific name.

This crayfish occurs only in the Meramec River basin of Missouri (exclusive of the Bourbeuse River and its tributaries). It digs burrows in gravel beneath large rocks, and probably emerges at night to feed.

The freckled crayfish is distinguished from all other species within its range by the pattern of conspicuous black spots over the entire dorsal surface.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1220648

Freckled Crayfish-Cambarus maculatus Hobbs & Pflieger

2008-12-04T11:49:00.002+07:00

his powerfully built, yellowish-tan crayfish has numerous conspicuous black spots on its pincers, carapace and abdomen. Adults are about 1.9 to 3.3 inches in length. The freckled crayfish has not been formally described and lacks a valid scientific name.

The freckled crayfish is distinguished from all other species within its range by the pattern of conspicuous black spots over the entire dorsal surface.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1220648

Hubbs' Crayfish-Cambarus hubbsi Creaser

2008-12-03T08:53:00.002+07:00

This powerfully built crayfish is usually olive-tan or reddish brown, without prominent spots or blotches. A narrow blackish band is present at the junction of the carapace and abdomen. The carapace of Hubbs' crayfish is broad and dorsally flattened, and is separated at its middle by a space (areola). Adults are about 1.7 to 3.6 inches in length.

This crayfish occurs in streams on the southern slope of the Ozark Uplands, from Big Creek in Iron County west to the James River in Greene and Christian counties. Hubbs' crayfish occurs in the pools and riffles of clear, permanent streams, in burrows that it digs in gravel beneath large rocks. It is seldom seen in the open, but probably emerges from its burrow at night to feed.

Hubbs' crayfish is distinguished from other stream crayfish within its range by the broad, dorsally flattened carapace, unusually powerful pincers, and nearly uniform color without spots or blotches.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1221724

Devil Crayfish-Cambarus diogenes Girard

2008-12-03T08:47:00.001+07:00

This powerfully built crayfish is usually a uniform olive or tan, without obvious blotches or spots. Occasional individuals are blue, with yellowish stripes on the abdomen and bright red outlining many body parts. The carapace is not separated at its middle by a space (areola). Adults are about 3.2 to 4.5 inches in length.

The devil crayfish is perhaps our most widely distributed crayfish, occurring over all except the west-central part of the state. It lives in burrows in timbered or formerly timbered areas along the floodplains of streams. Its presence is often revealed by conspicuous mud chimneys. In early spring, young and some adults occur in roadside pools and other temporary waters.

Another burrowing species, the prairie crayfish, superficially resembles the devil crayfish. However, adults of the prairie crayfish are often bright red. In males the tips of the reproductive structures (gonopods) are strongly curved in the devil crayfish, nearly straight in the prairie crayfish.

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1220648

Prairie Crayfish-Procambarus gracilis (Bundy)

2008-12-03T08:44:00.002+07:00

This crayfish is bright red to reddish-brown, without conspicuous blotches or spots. The pincers are short and heavy, and the high, dome-shaped carapace is longer than the abdomen. The carapace is not separated at its middle by a space (areola). Adults are about 2.1 to 2.8 inches in length.

The prairie crayfish occurs widely in grasslands and former grasslands of the Prairie Region. It lives in burrows that are often a long distance from any surface water. These may be six feet of more in depth. Most public prairies in Missouri support large populations, but this crayfish is seldom seen by visitors because of its secretive habits.

The prairie crayfish superficially resembles the devil crayfish, another burrowing species. The devil crayfish is never a uniform bright red, as are many adult prairie crayfish. Males of the two species are readily separated by the shape of the gonopod tips (nearly straight in the prairie crayfish, strongly curved in the devil crayfish).

Article Source:

http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm#anchor1220648

Northern Crayfish-Oronectes virilis Hagen

2008-12-02T09:32:00.002+07:00

his is a rather plain, green to reddish-brown crayfish without prominent markings. The pincers are green with orange tips, and in adults are conspicuously studded with whitish knobs. Paired blotches run lengthwise along the abdomen. The rostrum has conspicuous notches or spines near its tip. This is one of our largest crayfish, with adults reaching a length of 4.8 inches or more.

The native range of the northern crayfish encompasses all of the Prairie Region and a band of streams along the northern and western border of the Ozarks. Small, widely scattered populations now occur elsewhere in the Ozarks as accidental bait-bucket introductions. In the Prairie Region this crayfish is very abundant in the pools of rocky streams.

The northern crayfish is the largest of crayfish in the Prairie Region. The papershell crayfish differs from this species in having pincers that are gray or purple, a pale lengthwise stripe along the middle of the carapace and abdomen, and a rostrum without lateral notches or spines.

Article Source:http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm

Papershell Crayfish-Orconectes immunis (Hagen)

2008-12-02T09:24:00.001+07:00

his rather plain, gray-green crayfish is characterized by a pale central zone along the middle of the carapace and abdomen. The pincers are orange-tipped, and in mature males are uniquely tinged with purple. The rostrum is without lateral notches or spines near its tip. Adults are about 1.7 to 3.5 inches in length.

The papershell crayfish occurs widely in the Prairie Region and along the floodplains of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. It is almost always found over a mud bottom in turbid waters that fluctuate drastically in area and depth. Typical habitats are shallow sloughs and the isolated pools of prairie creeks. This crayfish retreats to burrows in late summer as the habitats in which it occurs dry up.

The papershell crayfish superficially resembles the northern crayfish, and sometimes occurs in the same habitats. The latter species does not have a pale zone along the middle of the carapace and abdomen, and the rostrum has lateral notches or spines near its tip.

Article Source: http://mdc.mo.gov/nathis/arthopo/crayfish/varcraw.htm

CRAYFISH

2008-12-02T09:01:00.003+07:00

Crayfish are marvelous classroom organisms. They are exciting and easy to care for. Through close observation, students can learn interesting details about animal structures while developing sensitivity to the needs of living organisms. Crayfish can act like living magnets, keeping students in at recess and drawing students into your classroom from all over school. In short, crayfish can bring new life to your classroom.

Crayfish are crustaceans. Their appearance is bizarre—they are festooned with a bewildering array of walking legs, pincers, and other appendages for eating, feeling, and attending to other crayfish business. Equipped with thousands of sensory bristles, some sensitive to chemicals and the others to touch, crayfish can smell, feel, and hear acutely, even though they are completely covered in a hard shell. They are aquatic, but can survive fairly extended sojourns on dry land as long as their gills remain moist. In order to meet the crayfish up close and personal, let's review some of this animal's natural history.

Crayfish like it dark and cool, and during much of the daylight they will be found alone, withdrawn under a rock or a clump of vegetation, waiting for dark, at which time they come out to forage for food. Crayfish are omnivorous, eating just about anything they can find or catch, dead or alive. Large food is held and torn to pieces in the large pincers and conveyed to the mouth by the smaller specialized legs near the head. That's what crayfish mostly do: loaf all day and look for food all night.

Crayfish are terrific animals for your students to study. They walk, swim, eat, hide, breathe, mate, molt, and die right in the classroom. Your crayfish container is a microcosm of life on Earth, and students will learn a lot by sharing time with crayfish.

Reproduction. But there are times in a crayfish's life when the routine is broken. Males and females, spurred on by messages communicated to each other, join periodically for mating, especially in the spring. Males can be told from females by the generally larger pincers and narrower tails, but these characteristics are not absolute. To tell for sure, you must pick them up and look underneath. Males have two pairs of modified swimmerets (the small leglike appendages under the tail) that are white-tipped and lay between the last pair of walking legs. The females have longer, softer-looking swimmerets (for holding the eggs) and a little white pore centered between the walking legs. Some time after mating the female lays about 200 eggs, which she carries in a mass under her tail.

After several weeks the eggs hatch, and a hoard of minute, perfectly formed, ravenous baby crayfish emerge. At first they continue to ride along under the female's tail, eating tiny waterborne bits of food, but soon they leave this security and head out on their own. During these early days many are eaten by fish, insects, and other crayfish, but some always survive to fulfill their destiny.

Pregnant crayfish. You think you might have a pregnant crayfish? Here are some things to consider.

A peaceful environment with plenty of cover in or under which to hide will provide security for the mothers. You might want to go one step farther and separate the two females so each has a basin of her own. That way you will be able to tell whose offspring belong to which female
When the eggs hatch it will be even more important for there to be lot of structure in the habitat. Plan to put in a bunch of plants or even plastic plants in which the babies can hide. Rocks, pebbles, flower pots, and the like are good, too. The thing you want is lots of places for the babies to hide from each other. They are notorious for eating each other. As you know, crayfish are at risk just after they have molted, and the little ones love to snack on their just molted brothers and sisters. That’is the way it goes in the crayfish world.
If you have some flake fish food, a little bit crumbled up into dust will be a good food source for the babies. They will find the tiny bits that fall into the gravel on the floor of the habitat.
One more thing...don't give up on the eggs. It might be 4–6 weeks before they hatch. You may not know when your females laid their eggs, in which case it will be a surprise when they hatch.

Molting. Another ponderable: think about the problem of living inside a suit of armor. Crayfish can't grow unless the shell (comprising the carapace, or main body shell, tail shell, and leg shells) can be removed. And this is exactly what crayfish do. Periodically (quite often early in life) the crayfish slides out of its old, hard shell in a process called molting. The "naked" crayfish that emerges is actually covered in a complete and perfect shell, but it is soft and flexible, allowing the crayfish to expand and grow. After a day or so the new shell will become hard, again affording the animal the protection of an armored exterior.

In preparation for molting the crayfish withdraws most of the calcium from its shell, and stores it in two white "tablets"in the sides of its head. Calcium is a major hardener in the crayfish shell, as it is in strong human bones and teeth. With this precious supply of calcium the new shell can harden in a matter of hours instead of days or weeks.

Ordering crayfish. There are a number of ways to get crayfish for this activity. Have students catch crayfish from a local creek or pond; buy them from a bait shop; or order them from a biological supply company. In any case, you will need 10–12 healthy crayfish that are accustomed to still, relatively warm water (as opposed to cold, fast-running streams).

If you purchase the crayfish from a biological supply company, place your order for one dozen medium-size crayfish well before the investigation. Let the company know on what date you plan to introduce the crayfish to your class. Use a local vendor if possible.

Preparing for crayfish arrival. A day or two before you expect the crayfish to arrive, prepare their habitat. Fill two bus trays about one-third full of cold tap water (3–4 cm deep). Keep the trays out of sight in a cool, dark place. Let the water sit for a day or more to release chlorine from the water.

What to do when they arrive. The crayfish will arrive in a cardboard box packed with damp paper or moss. Alert the school secretary to notify you as soon as they come. Immediately upon arrival, cut open plastic bag to provide air. Keeping bag upright, float entire contents in prepared bus tray for 15 to 30 minutes to equalize water temperatures. Carefully remove crayfish from the bag, grasping each from behind to avoid the strong pincers. Aquatic plants shipped with the crayfish can be rinsed in clean dechlorinated or spring water and used as both food and "hiding" places for the crayfish. Maintain at cool room temperatures, out of direct sunlight.

Handling the crayfish. Practice picking up the crayfish so that you can demonstrate the proper technique for your students. Approach the crayfish from behind. Grasp it firmly on the carapace (body shell) behind the pincers. Pick it up. It may try to reach back, but don't worry—it will not be able to reach you.

Provide aquatic plants. Buy or collect from a local pond some small aquatic plants for the crayfish. We recommend getting 6–12 sprigs of Elodea, also known as Anacharis. (It looks like a little green feather boa.) You can order it from a biological supply company when you order your crayfish, or you can pick it up locally at a pet store that deals with fish. If Elodea is not available, try another inexpensive aquatic plant.

Find a place for the crayfish. Plan where the two bus trays with the crayfish will reside in your room for up to several months. They need to be cool, out of direct sunlight, and safe from being spilled.

Prepare for care and feeding. Crayfish need ample clean, cool water and sufficient food in order to be healthy in your classroom. It is virtually impossible to get the water too cold (short of freezing), but it is easy for it to get too warm. Try to keep the temperature between 5°C (41°F) and 20°C (68°F).

You will feed your crayfish protein in the form of dry cat food that sinks in water. Don't worry if the crayfish don't eat for a week or two; they will eat when hungry. Always move the crayfish out of their home tray and into a basin with 3–4 cm of water to feed them the dry cat food. Put in one piece of cat food per crayfish. Leave them there for about 1/2 hour. (If they don't eat, they aren't hungry.) Then return them to their home tray, without any of the cat food. The other food source that is always available is the Elodea that stays with the crayfish in their home trays.

This feeding routine can be followed every day if the crayfish are actively eating, and less frequently if they are not. While they are in the feeding basin, the home tray can be rinsed and filled with fresh water. This should be done about once a week—more often if the water begins to smell bad.

Plan for a new crayfish home. When you have completed the activities, there are several options for disposing of the crayfish. Discuss the options with students and together come up with a plan.

Set up an aquarium and make the crayfish permanent members of your classroom community.
Another class might like to have them for a science resource.
If some of the students would like to take them home, send them off, with parental permission, of course.
If the crayfish were not collected locally, they should not be released into the local environment.

Resolving the question of what to do with the crayfish can be turned over to students. They can do research by writing or calling local experts to find out what they recommend. One expert to talk to might be the company that supplied the crayfish. Local fish and game biologists would be another resource for students to contact.

Crayfish pose no health hazard for students. They do not carry diseases. Occasionally you will see white wormlike animals attached to the crayfish carapaces and pincers. They are harmless to both humans and crayfish. They seem to be opportunists, riding along for a free meal when the crayfish eat.
Article Source:
http://lawrencehallofscience.org/foss/fossweb/teachers/materials/plantanimal/crayfish.html

The Control of Burrowing Crayfish in Ponds

2008-11-27T08:54:00.003+07:00

At times landowners may be confronted with serious water losses resulting from the sudden collapse or gradual deterioration of earthen pond dams, irrigation canals, and drainage ditches. Although the loss of water from small earthen impoundments is frequently due to faulty construction, it may also be the result of undetected biological forces. Burrowing animals such as muskrats, Norway rats, and particularly crayfish, construct their homes or "burrows" by digging into soil banks along the shorelines of waterbodies. Tunnels dug below the water level provide channels through which water can escape. Tunnels dug above the water level can decrease structural support of the embankment and increase the risk of washout during flood conditions. These hazards are multiplied in waters where burrowing animals are abundant and where water levels fluctuate. Rising and falling water levels often stimulate these animals to dig new burrows, thereby increasing the potential for structural damage and water leaks. The most abundant invertebrate burrower in Virginia's waters is the crayfish.

Crayfish, also known as crawfish, crawdad, freshwater crab and other local names, are found in freshwaters throughout the world. There are 550 species worldwide, 390 species in North America, 338 species in the United States, and more than 25 species in Virginia. Worldwide, they range in size from the tiny dwarf crayfish of Louisiana, less than one inch in length at maturity, to the marron crayfish of Australia, which reaches a length of 16 inches and a maximum weight of 4 pounds. The world's largest crayfish is a Tasmanian species which can attain a weight of 8 pounds. The crayfish species that inhabit Virginia's waters are considerably smaller, seldom exceeding 4 inches in total length.

Ecological and Economic Importance

Crayfish play an important role in aquatic ecosystems (ponds, lakes, streams, marshes, etc.), by serving as a preferred food item for a large number of aquatic and terrestrial animals. Many sportfish (trout, bass, and larger sunfishes), birds (egrets, herons, kingfishers, ducks), amphibians (bullfrogs), and mammals (raccoons, otters, mink) consume large quantities of crayfish. Because crayfish will eat both living and dead plant and animal material, they help to reduce the amount of decaying matter, and thereby improve water quality. Most crayfish are not active predators and have difficulty capturing fast moving animals. Approximately 40 percent of their diet consists of worms and insects inhabiting the bottom muds. The remainder consists of living and decaying aquatic vegetation. In fact, crayfish have been suggested as biological controls for nuisance waterweeds.

In addition to their valuable ecological benefits, crayfish have attained economic importance as: (1) a commercial food product for human consumption, (2) fish bait, and (3) laboratory organisms for biological studies. Although not as well known as their saltwater relative - the lobster - freshwater crayfish are highly esteemed as a luxury food item in southern states, notably Louisiana, and in European countries, such as France. In these areas, wild crayfish are harvested by commercial trappers or raised in rice-field ponds. Over 10 million pounds of red-swamp crayfish - valued at $5 million - are harvested annually from Louisiana's crayfish farms. Smaller crayfish often are sold as fish bait. Despite the fact that almost all freshwater crayfish are edible and considered a table delicacy rivaling the lobster, they generally are underutilized by man. Thus, should you be fortunate enough to be plagued by burrowing crayfish problems, an immediate solution would be to literally eat your problem away!

Although crayfish are essential components of aquatic ecosystems and represent a valuable economic resource, some burrowing species of crayfish can seriously interfere with man's multiple-uses of inland waters. As previously suggested, significant water losses may occur when the tunneling activities of burrowing crayfish weaken earthen dams or create water leaks. Lawns, gardens and agricultural crops are frequently damaged by crayfish. Therefore, landowners who have invested the time and money to construct small water impoundments should take some precautions to prevent possible damage from burrowing crayfish. Precautions should include occasional inspection of the shorelines, especially in the vicinity of the dam, for the presence of large numbers of crayfish and evidence of extensive burrowing. Some species of crayfish are notorious burrowers, others do not burrow at all. Unfortunately, it is difficult to distinguish burrowing crayfish from non-burrowing ones.

Burrows and Breeding

A crayfish burrow is a cone-shaped mound or "chimney" composed of mud pellets that mark the entrance to the burrow. Most burrows are located along the shoreline close to the water's edge. These burrows may range from a few inches to greater than 36 inches deep, and will be from 1/4 to 2 inches in diameter. Crayfish burrows may be dug straight down or at a slight angle. Burrows dug horizontally into a sloping bank often run straight for about a foot and then angle downward. Most burrows are capped with a compact plug of mud, and they may have more than one entrance hole. Male and female crayfish use the burrows as a refuge to escape from predators and as a resting place during molting and inactive periods. Female crayfish often use these burrows as a nursery for their young, particularly during periods of low water.

The breeding season peaks in early spring, but may extend throughout the summer and into late fall depending on the species and water temperatures. During mating, the male crayfish deposits sperm into an external receptacle on the female. The sperm remain here until the mature eggs pass from the oviduct and are fertilized simultaneously. A female crayfish carrying a cluster of egg is characterized as "in berry." The eggs hatch in from 2 to 20 weeks depending on the water temperature. After hatching, young crayfish may remain attached to the female for a week or two before crawling dispersing. During drought, the young will be released into the burrows, but many do not survive due to lack of food and crowding.

Extensive burrowing around ponds and lakes can undermine the structural integrity of dams. Fortunately, several control measures can be employed effectively to reduce crayfish densities to a level at which structural damage and water leaks will be minimized. Efforts at total eradication usually are futile because crayfish can migrate considerable distances and will reinvade the pond continually.

Biological Controls

Biological control of crayfish refers to the deliberate introduction and establishment or encouragement of natural enemies of crayfish. An excellent method for reducing high numbers of crayfish is to stock and maintain a healthy population of sportfish in the infested waters. Trout, bass, catfish, and large bluegills (bream) eat crayfish and can help to reduce excessive numbers. Properly stocked sportfish ponds seldom have burrowing crayfish problems. Other natural predators that feed heavily on both young and adult crayfish are: amphibians (bullfrogs, salamanders), reptiles (turtle, water snakes), waterbirds (herons, kingfishers, ducks, geese), and mammals (raccoons, otters, mink). Encouraging wildlife species that eat crayfish to live near your pond by providing suitable habitat is a good strategy. They act as biological controls providing year-round protection from burrowing crayfish problems without the need for expensive trapping and potentially dangerous chemical application.

Complete elimination of all crayfish usually is not possible, seldom practical, and certainly undesirable, considering their beneficial value. Control is successful when the balance between the predator (fish, birds, mammals) and the prey species (crayfish) is reached, and excessive burrowing damage is reduced to an acceptable level.

Trapping Crayfish

Trapping crayfish is a very effective control method. Several types of crayfish traps are available or can be made using one-half inch (1/2") mesh chicken wire. Funnel-end commercial minnow traps are often modified by enlarging the openings to 2 inches (2") in diameter to allow for easy entry by large crayfish. A string of funnel traps left overnight should produce a good catch. Most other traps are similar to those used to catch saltwater crabs. Drop and lift type crab traps can be used to catch crayfish. Simply lower the baited trap to the bottom, and quickly pull it up at frequent intervals (depending on the number of crayfish being caught).

Any fresh fish or meat serves as an effective bait to lure crayfish to the trap. Meat scraps, fish heads, soybean cake, perforated cans of dog food, or almost any high-protein substance will work. For overnight trap setting times, enclose the bait in hardware cloth to prevent the trapped crayfish from eating all the bait, and reducing trap effectiveness.

The habits of crayfish strongly influence how easily they are caught. Crayfish overwinter in their burrows or the bottom muds or shoreline banks, and emerge as the water warms. Mid-April is the time when crayfish first become active in Virginia. The optimal water temperature range for crayfish is between 40°F (4°C) and 75°F (24°C). As temperatures drop below or rise above this range, crayfish become inactive and stop feeding. Crayfish are nocturnal and are most active at night. Therefore, traps should be set in late afternoon and left overnight. To handle crayfish safely, grasp the body just behind the claws. For beginners, a pair of heavy gloves will ward off pinches.

Chemical Control

Chemical treatments are not recommended because they: (1) threaten water quality, (2) kill beneficial plants and animals as well as pests, and (3) can be widely distributed by wind and water movements. No chemicals are currently registered for crayfish control. Never apply toxic chemicals directly to waters or near shorelines where they can seep into waterways.

Cleaning and Cooking Crayfish

The freshwater crayfish not only looks like a miniature lobster, but tastes almost as good as its saltwater relative. The first step to preparing crayfish for the table is to wash the live crayfish in cool, clean water. After washing, the crayfish are blanched (par boiled) in hot water for about five minutes. This process kills and cooks the crayfish, kills any bacteria present, turns the crayfish a brilliant red color, and facilitates peeling the meat from the claws and tail. Next, remove the intestinal track by twisting and pulling the middle flipper of the tail. Some prefer to cook only the claws and tails. After simmering, remove the meat from the claws and tail, add butter, salt, and pepper, and enjoy; crayfish meat may be served hot or cold.

Article Source: http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/fisheries/420-253/420-253.html

Crayfish Information

2008-11-27T08:48:00.002+07:00

General Information

Crayfish Appearance

The crayfish is typical of most shrimplike crustaceans and is characterised by a joined head and thorax, or midsection, and a segmented body, which is sandy yellow, green, white, pink or dark brown in colour.

Crayfish are usually about 7.5 cm (3 inches) long. Among the smallest is the 2.5-centimetre-long Cambarellus diminutus of the south-eastern United States. Among the largest is Astacopsis gouldi of Tasmania; its length may reach 40 cm and its weight about 3.5 kg (8 pounds).

The head has two pairs of sensory antennae and a pair of eyes on movable stalks. The appendages, or pereiopods, of the thorax include four pairs of walking legs which, as well as walking, are to probe cracks and crevices between rocks looking for food. Crayfish also own one pair of clawbearing chelipeds, which it extends in front of its body while moving. These strong pinchers are specialised for cutting, capturing food, attack, and defence. A pinch can hurt! The crayfish also has several pairs of specialised food handling "legs," bailers to cycle water over the gills, and five pairs of swimmerets which are under the abdomen. All of these "legs" can be regenerated if broken off.

Crayfish have a hard outside skeleton. This jointed exoskeleton provides protection and allows movement, but limits growth. As a result, the crayfish regularly gets too big for its skeleton, sheds it, and grows a new larger one. This is called molting. and occurs six to ten times during the first year of rapid growth, but less often during the second year. For a few days following each molt, crayfish have soft exoskeletons and are more vulnerable to predators.

Crayfish Behaviour

Crayfish, common in streams and lakes, often conceal themselves under rocks or logs. They are most active at night, when they feed largely on snails, algae, insect larvae, worms, and tadpoles; some eat vegetation (various water plants). A dead fish worms, corn, and salmon eggs are also favourites of the crayfish. Studies show that adults (one year old) become most active at dusk and continue heavy feeding activity until daybreak. Young crayfish are more likely to be the ones out during bright sunny days, while the older crayfish are more active on cloudy days and during the night. General movement is always a slow walk, but if startled, crayfish use rapid flips of their tail to swim backwards and escape danger.

Most crayfish live short lives, usually less than two years. Therefore, rapid, high-volume reproduction is important for the continuation of the species. Many crayfish become sexually mature and mate in the October or November after they're born, but fertilisation and egg laying usually occur the following spring. The fertilised eggs are attached to the female' swimmerets on the underside of her jointed abdomen. There the 10 to 800 eggs change from dark to translucent as they develop. The egg-carrying female is said to be "in berry," because the egg mass looks something like a berry. Females are often seen "in berry" during May or June. The eggs hatch in 2 to 20 weeks, depending on water temperature. The newly-hatched crayfish stay attached to their mother until shortly after their second molt.

The natural predators of the Crayfish include alligators, burbots (a type of cod), chicken turtle, painted turtle, desman (a type of otter), grackle (a type of a bird).

Crayfish Internal Anatomy

In the open circulatory system blood flows from the heart through the arteries and returns into open sinuses. The digestive system has a stomach for grinding food and a gland for chemical processing. The antennal gland is the main excretory organ.

Scientific Crayfish

Crayfish are part of the order Decapoda constituting the families Astacidae (Northern Hemisphere), Parastacidae, or Austroastracidae (Southern Hemisphere). The most common genera of North America include Procambarus, Orconectes, Faxonella, Cambarus, Cambarellus, and Pacifastacus. Austropotamobius is the most common genus of Europe. The genus Astacus occurs in Europe, the genus Cambaroides in East Asia. The arthopod class also includes centipedes, crustaceans, insects, millipedes, mites, scorpions and spiders.

Crayfish as Fishfood

The importance of the crayfish in a game fish's diet can be played up or down depending on one's point of view. Down: Studies show that trout eat more aquatic insects than any other item. Up: Biological studies also show that stream-living trout will select the largest prey items that they can swallow. When crayfish are available, they will be eaten!

Regardless of your perspective, crayfish can't be overlooked because of their size and nutritional value. Can you imagine how many ants or mayflies a trout would have to eat to equal the food value gained from one average-sized crayfish? Then factor in how much energy the fish would have to expend to feed on those hundreds of tiny insects. The same principle would hold true for bass.

My sporadic (I usually release my catch) inspection of trout stomach contents frequently turns up crayfish. I found crayfish, usually in several pieces, in trout as small as 7.5 inches. Several times I removed parts of more than one crayfish from a single stomach. Although anglers seemingly in-the-know favor the "just molted" soft-shelled "crabs" for bait, all of the consumed crayfish that I examined were "hard-shells."

The Fishing Connection

What does all of this tell the serious angler? Crayfish are eaten by trout and bass. Fish can't afford to pass up such a large meal. They do make an effective bait. Crayfish to be used for bait are easily collected with a small minnow net. Small rocky streams are a good place to check. Numbers vary from stream to stream, so keep looking until you locate a hotspot. Softshells are good, but normal crayfish probably will do just as well. Collect assorted sizes.

I have had much success on trout with Rebel's Teeny Wee Crawfish, a 1.5-inch long crayfish-like crankbait. Of the dozens of trout that this lure has produced for me, several have been browns of over 16 inches. What really surprised me, however, were some of the smaller trout that I landed trout from 7.5 inches all the way down to tiny browns and rainbows of only 5 inches.

Because species and crayfish colors vary, it's best to fish with a bait or lure that matches the natural. Fish them in shallow, rocky places, for crayfish favor these areas. Rig naturals so they can be retrieved backwards, the way that crayfish always swim. Fishing at dawn, dusk, or during the night would best imitate natural movement.

Article Source: http://www.mackers.com/crayfish/info.htm

Crayfish

2008-11-26T09:12:00.001+07:00

Australia has a large and unique crayfish fauna including the largest and smallest species in the world. Crayfish, of all of the freshwater invertebrates of inland Australia, are the most widely recognised and important to the human population and the natural aquatic ecosystems. Crayfish are heavy bodied crustaceans with an enlarged, pincer-like first pair of legs and are known by many common names depending on the area they are found. In New South Wales and Victoria they are called yabbies, in Western Australia the Koonac, Gigly and the Marron, while Queensland has the Redclaw.

What are Crayfish?

Crayfish belong to a group of animals called Crustaceans and are part of the phylum Arthropoda. Other Arthropods are insects (Insecta), spiders (Arachnida), and centipedes and millipedes (Myriapoda). All Arthropods have a hardened outer shell, called cuticle (made from calcium carbonate) that acts as a skeleton. Crustaceans are distinguished from the other arthropods by their two pair of antennae - an outer pair called antennae, and an inner pair called antennules. Crayfish bodies are divided into three parts; the head, the thorax (the section that contains the legs), and the abdomen (or the tail, which is the edible part of many large crustaceans including crayfish, prawns and lobsters). Crayfish, like many crustacean have a carapace or shield which projects backwards from the head and covers all of the thorax The carapace has two functions; firstly it protects the delicate feather-like gills which branch off from the base of the legs, and secondly it provides a water channel that is a constant flow of oxygenated water to pass over the gills and enables the crayfish to breathe.

Family Heritage and the Relatives

All freshwater crayfish in Australia belong to the Family Parastacidae.

Australia's crayfish fauna are divided into nine genera (or groups of species) which include over 100 species. The three most common and widespread genera are Cherax, Euastacus and Astacopsis. These are all medium to large crayfish that are found in streams, lakes and swamps. Cherax species are the best known crayfish and occur over the widest range, from northern, eastern and south-western Australia and are distinguished by having smooth bodies and claws. Cherax are also the main species used in the rapidly growing aquaculture industry.

They have a relatively rapid rate of growth and greater tolerances of larger temperature ranges and water conditions than many other crayfish. The three main species used in yabby farming and found in pet shops in Australia are the Dam Yabby Cherax destructor, the Marron Cherax tenuimanus from Western Australia, and the Queensland Red Claw Cherax quadricarinatus.

The Yabby

The yabby (Cherax destructor) has the largest range of all Australian crayfish. It occurs across most of Victoria, western New South Wales, south-western Queensland and eastern South Australia. They are probably the most hardy crayfish. They can tolerate poor water conditions and long periods of drought by burrowing deep into the river bed or dam wall in order to stay moist. This species was named destructor because of the damage its burrowing caused in dam walls and levee banks. Yabbies range in colour from brown, green to pale blue with mottled claws.

The Queensland Red Claw is characterised, as its name suggests, by a bright red patch on the outside of the large claw. The Marron is a dark brown or black or sometimes a bright blue colour. The striking blue form of the Marron is being selectively bred and are becoming increasingly popular as pets.

Other Crayfish

The second most widely distributed genus is Euastacus. This genus occurs from north Queensland throughout eastern and southern New South Wales, most of Victoria and southern South Australia. These crayfish are commonly referred to as freshwater lobsters, spiny lobsters or spiny crayfish because their bodies are covered in large spines, particularly on the tail and the claws. Probably the most heavily armoured and widespread Euastacus species is Euastacus armatus or the Murray River Crayfish. Its range includes central and southern New South Wales, northern Victoria. This species has a green to green-brown body and large white spines on the tail and white claws. Euastacus species generally prefer well oxygenated water and are often found in cooler, faster flowing mountain streams and rivers. The different species come in an array of colours from the white claws and green body of Euastacus armatus, the blue and white Lamington Plateau Crayfish Euastacus sulcatus to Euastacus suttoni with dark red, green or black body and red or orange claws, to Euastacus spinifer the Large Sydney Crayfish with a dark green body, red tipped spines on the abdomen and blue tinged claws.

The third genus Astacopsis is found only in Tasmania and includes Astacopsis gouldi or the Giant Tasmanian Crayfish and is not only the largest crayfish in the world but is also believed to be the largest freshwater crustacean. Although large animals are now rare, specimens have been recorded to weigh in excess of 6 kg, and measuring over 400 mm in length with claws longer than 150 mm.

The remaining genera contain small species which have relatively restricted distributions. An interesting genus found only in Queensland is Tenuibranchiurus. This genus includes the world's smallest crayfish, Tenuibranchiurus glypticus, which does not exceed 30 mm in length.

Crayfish Habits

Engaeus sp.
Land Crayfish
Illustration: K. Dempsey

Crayfish, can be found in a variety of freshwater habitats such as rivers, streams, dams, lakes and swamps. They are principally vegetarians and are generally most active at night (nocturnal) where they spend their time foraging on the stream bed, eating water weeds and the decaying roots and leaves. Crayfish are, however, opportunistic omnivores, which means they can eat almost anything including meat.

All crayfish have the ability to burrow. Some genera are more adept at burrowing than others. The genus Engaeus or Land Crayfish has become so specialised at burrowing that the animals spend their whole life cycle in a burrow and have adapted their bodies to live in an enclosed space. These specialisations include a reduced tail, eyes and antennae and reduced body size, usually not exceeding 45 mm in length. The burrows can be as long as 10 m in order to reach the water table and are often recognised by mud chimneys at the entrance to the burrow. These chimneys can range from a few centimetres to 40 cm in height.

Keeping Crayfish

Crayfish make interesting and industrious pets and can be purchased from most pet shops. The only species sold as pets are the Dam Yabby, the Marron, and the Red Claw. These are hardy species that require little maintenance and will live from two-five years. To set up an aquarium for crayfish you need a good aeration system, 3-5 cm of sand, some small pebbles and some large hollow or cavernous rocks which the crayfish can hide in during the day, and plenty of long waterweeds.

Points to Consider When Setting up your Aquarium

Keep the water clean by changing it regularly (every two to three months) and use the recommended water conditioners each time the water is changed.

Do not allow uneaten food to stay in the aquarium for more than a couple of hours, as it will quickly turn the water bad.

Use a good quality aerator and filter. Good aeration is vital to sustaining your crayfish. Under-gravel filters, however, are not recommended for crayfish because their burrowing usually uncovers the filter and reduces its efficiency.

Do not over-stock your tank because crayfish are very territorial and will kill or damage each other if placed in too small a tank. Each animal requires about 30-40 cm area with places to hide from the other crayfish.

Crayfish like all arthropods shed or moult their outer skin in order to grow. This happens every three to four weeks in small crayfish (4-5 cm). The length of time between each moult increases as the animal get older to once a year in full grown animals. Most Cherax species take about one and half years to reach maturity (15-20 cm). During the moulting phase the crayfish will stop eating and reduce activity, until on the day of the moult it will appear motionless. Crayfish moult their shell, (ecdysis), by splitting their tail along the back and then flicking the old shell off. The head and claws are removed last Once the shell is removed, crayfish are very soft and will hide until they have expanded into their new shell and the shell has hardened. It is advisable to leave the old shell in the tank as the crayfish will eat it as a source of calcium. Adding a small amount of calcium carbonate to the water will help make a stronger shell.

Feeding your Crayfish

Crayfish are principally vegetarian and will survive well on a diet of waterweed and almost any thinly cut vegetables such as pumpkin, potato, celery (including leaves), and apples and other fruits. You can also give them small amounts of meat or fish but it is not necessary. The important point to remember is not to overfeed crayfish. Crayfish only have a small stomach and will stop eating when full, leaving the remainder of the food. They do not need to be fed every day. A good feeding schedule would be one to two small pieces of food every two to three days. Remember to remove any left-over food after two hours.

Marine and Other Invertebrates Fact sheets

References

Carrol, P. N. (ed). 1980. A yabbie pot pourri. Hawkesbury Agricultural College, Richmond.
Jones, D. & Morgan, G. 1994. A field guide to Crustaceans of Australian Waters, Reed (William Heinemann Australia), Sydney.
Merrick, R. 1993. Freshwater Crayfishes of New South Wales. Linnean Society of New South Wales, Sydney.
Williams, W.D. 1980. Australian Freshwater Life. The Invertebrates of Australian Inland Waters. Macmillan Company of Australia, Melbourne.

Article Source: http://www.austmus.gov.au/factsheets/crayfish.htm

Is your goldfish dying?

2008-11-25T08:30:00.002+07:00

Goldfish are sturdy but they make their tanks dirty creating susceptibility to a host of infections. The first signs of a sick goldfish are clamped fins, shaking bodies, constant scratching against objects in the tank, hiding in the corners, gasping at the surface, swimming abnormally. Any of these symptoms should alert you to the sickness and you must take immediate action.

Some of the common goldfish diseases are:

Worm parasites: Flatworms or flukes are common in new goldfish. These parasites cause torn fins, colorless and split gill filaments, general malaise and a difficulty in breathing in the fish. Before introducing the fish in your tank, you should run the goldfish through a preventive bath for a few minutes. These baths could be of formalin or formalin and malachite both. There are other options also available and you can check them with your local vet. The bath has to be given every four days for two weeks to eliminate the risk of infection from all stages of the parasite.

Crustacean parasites: Pond raised goldfish will sometimes carry with it crustacean parasites like anchorworm and fish lice. Organo phosphate insecticides have been found to be affective against these parasites. The adult forms can be removed with forceps. The wound sites should then be treated with iodine.

Protozoan parasites: Like most fresh water fishes, goldfish are susceptible to white spot and velvet disease. White spot, also known as Ich, is visible as white spots on the fish. Other symptoms include drooping fins and labored breathing. Treatment is through raising the temperature and adding coarse salt. Consult a vet for medicating the water.

Infectious Disease: A parasitic attack on goldfish will usually lead to a secondary or tertiary bacterial and fungal infection. You can quarantine the new stock and the sick fish and observe for infections. Coarse salt and raising the water temperature helps. A vet may prescribe antibiotics.

Environmental deaths: Most goldfish deaths are due to the challenges posed by their environment. Sudden changes in the water temperature, insufficient oxygen and pollution can easily kill this fish.

Nutritional deaths: Healthy goldfish are known to die for no apparent reason. Most often these deaths can be traced to lack of proper nutrition. Though you must gauge the goldfish food portions, you must also make sure that you are making good food choices for your fish.

Prevention is however better than cure. All goldfish diseases are basically rooted in its habitat. A clean water tank can almost always ensure that your fish remains healthy. A good filter and water pump will maintain the oxygen level in the tank and ensure circulation to remove copious waste from the tank. Good aquarium management is the only key to keep your goldfish healthy. Do not overfeed goldfish since they never stop eating on their own. Make frequent water changes and supply ample oxygen. Be very observant and on first signs of illness take action.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/dyinggoldfish.html

Create a goldfish home in 5 easy steps

2008-11-25T08:25:00.002+07:00

Goldfish are often mistreated in the belief that they are sturdy and will survive in all conditions. This belief has led to the death of many fish and disappointment for many owners.

The fact to begin with is: GOLDFISH ARE DIRTY!

They can’t stop eating and will regurgitate a lot of food. They also dredge up the bottom in search of food and make the water murky and dirty. This reduces the oxygen content of the water and increases the toxin levels, harming the fish and sometimes killing them.

With goldfish, you need to have a very efficient water filtration system and will have to change at least 1/4th of the water every week! You also need to be careful that you don’t overcrowd the tank as goldfish need a lot of oxygen to attain sexual maturity and growth. A clear sign of oxygen deprivation is your goldfish hitting the surface gasping for breath.

Setting up a new aquarium / bowl
A bowl is not an ideal home for a goldfish. Along with providing less swimming area, the bowl also poses a problem with fitting the filtration system. It is also difficult to clean and is simply too small for goldfish. Consider the following points carefully when setting up your goldfish aquarium:

1. Space: Decide where you will place the tank even before you bring in one! The surface should be smooth and flat and should accommodate the entire tank. There should be an electrical connection nearby and the tank should not be in the way. Bumping against the tank will scare the fish and it might even be dangerous if you have a small child whizzing around on a tricycle.

2. Water quality: The water in the tank should be absolutely clean and well oxygenated. Choose a good filter and air pump too. The oxygen in the tank will not only help the fish but also the beneficial bacteria that are required in the tank.

3. Plants in the tank: You might have imagined a tank full of green aquarium plants and golden fishes but it is not a prudent idea. Goldfish uproot and eat aquarium plants. This causes a rise in ammonia levels that is dangerous for the goldfish. Consider planting artificial plants instead if you like the image so much. Once your aquarium is established you can introduce some live plants but you will have to consult a specialist for advice on which plants can be maintained in a goldfish aquarium.

4. Gravel: Gravel at the bottom of the tank helps with the oxygen levels in the tank. You should use at least a one-inch layer. Wash the gravel well before you lay it out.

5. Decorations: Goldfish like points of interest and hiding places in the aquarium. You can go ahead and have fun selecting aquarium decorations for this tank. Ensure that the pieces you select are smooth with no sharp or jutting edges.

Be aware that an aquarium is a delicate eco system. Set it up slowly and with great care. You must strive to attain the right balance of microorganisms that will sustain a healthy tank for you. Select the fish also carefully to ensure you are introducing the healthiest fishes that can be found.

Humane understanding
While goldfish might seem like an ideal cheap pet, it isn’t so. You have to understand the needs of this fish which is truly hardy but has acquired a reputation of dying quickly! This reputation owes it origin to the fact that lack of care can kill your goldfish quickly.

The world record for a goldfish is 49 years, so if you are losing your fish in weeks, you have to check the care you are giving!

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishhome.html

ABC of feeding your goldfish

2008-11-24T09:35:00.002+07:00

Did you know that goldfish can actually eat till they burst? Yes! The intestines of goldfish may actually burst, killing the fish due to overfeeding. Goldfish do not stop eating on their own, therefore you have to caliberate their diet. As a general rule, feed your fish only twice a day and only as much as they can consume in 3-4 minutes.

The most important thing to remember about feeding goldfish is that they cannot digest excess protein. So the food you choose has to be low on proteins and high on carbohydrates. A proper diet for your goldfish will be varied and will follow proper procedures and will be in right quantities.

All species require different diets and it is imperative for you to know the correct diet of the specie you are feeding. Goldfish do not thrive well on carnivorous diet and become dull colored and sluggish if fed a carnivorous diet. You can make the goldfish diet healthier by supplementing it with shelled and deskinned peas and blanched green leafy vegetables. Again, be careful about the quantity.

Feeding the fish only one type of food can cause constipation, diarrhea and even diseases since over time the fish’s resistence is lowered owing to poor nutrition. You should give your goldfish a variety in food. For instance, add lettuce and brine shrimp to the flakes. With variety your goldfish will become more active and colorful.

Food is an indicator
Sometimes a fish will stop eating if it is not well or if it suffering from shock. Sometimes the fish might just be shy and unable to compete for food. As their caregiver, you will have to watch out for all these symptoms and take action.

Some fish are plain finicky and don’t like the food you are giving them. You might have to vary the diet in such cases. Before you take any action, make sure the fish is not diseased. If a fish is too shy to compete for food, you might have to separate it from the rest of the fishes by using a tank divider at feeding time. If one of your fish is eating but is still looking pinched and wasted then you have a diseased fish. Either take it to a vet or refer to fish diseases if you think you can handle the problem at home.

Will your fish starve when you are away on the weekend?
No, they won’t! Goldfish can live without food for a day or two though they may nibble on your plants. If you are going to be away for longer duration, you will have to make arrangements for feeding your fish, lest they start eating the smaller inhabitants of the tank! Electronic automatic food dispensers are available for the purpose these days. It is best if a human can feed your fish so that in case of an emergency, they can call you and take action. You have to remember that fishes are not immune to whims like variety and picky eating. There are fishes that will behave like spoilt children and you will have to take care of feeding them to keep them healthy and beautiful. Be observant and enjoy feeding your pets as you see the colors of your labor actually develop on their golden scales!

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/feedinggoldfish.html

Six common Arowana ailments

2008-11-24T09:25:00.002+07:00

Whenever a fish is plucked from its natural habitat and placed in an artificial environment like a tank, the fish will suffer from some stress and shock. In such a state, the fish is more susceptible to diseases. Bad water quality management and change in food will also put the fish at the risk of succumbing to diseases. Rather than curing a sick fish, it is easier to manage the above stated factors to reduce the level of stress for the fish.

Arowana is sturdier than most fish but factors like

- bad/spoilt food
- sudden change in temperature
- low oxygen level and
- bad treatment

will cause stress and sickness in this fish too.

Common Arowana ailments are:

1. Overturned gill covers: Presence of excess ammonia in the water will result in overturned gill covers. Rotting food and fish excretions cause the level of NH3, NO2 and NO3 to rise and cause stress to the fish. Lack of space in the tank may also be the cause.

Inconsistent water quality and temperature is also known to cause overturned gills in Arowana. This disease will cause the gills to move irregularly and breathing will be abnormal and faster. The fish will hit out of the surface for air and its appetite will decrease. You must change the water immediately and then after every 2-3 days, change 20% of the water. Increasing the oxygen level will also help.

2. Cloudy eyes: Contaminated water and eye injury cause cloudy eyes in Arowana. The eyes cloud and then become moldy. Finally they will swell and get covered in bluish white matter. This disease can cause blindness and even death. Change 1/3rd water and add coarse salt to the tank. Increase the temperature by 2 or 3 degrees and observe. If the condition doesn’t improve you will have to medicate the water after consulting from the vet.

3. Protruding scales disease: Extreme temperature changes and contamination of water cause tilting at every 5th to 8th scale. You may even note blood traces at the root of the scale. This disease usually occurs in young Arowana. The tilting prevents the scales from protecting the fish against bacteria attack and eventually the fish dies.

Increase the temperature of the tank to 32-24 degrees and add coarse salt to the tank. Change 25% of the water after 3 days and increase the oxygen level. You may have to add medications if the condition doesn’t improve.

4. Rotting gills: This is caused by a parasite that hides in the gills and sucks all nutrition out of the Arowana. This is a contagious disease. Medicate the water.

5. Stomach ailments: seen in young fish, the stale food or sharp pincers of the prawns injure the stomach wall, which causes bacterial infection. The stomach swells up and the anal region becomes red and swollen. You will have to medicate the water.

6. White Spot: This is the most common disease in Arowana that originates from ICH bacteria. The bacteria flourish at body temperature but stop multiplying and even die when the temperature rises.

The fins get itchy and you will observe that the fish scratches itself against the tank walls. Appetite drops and fins start rotting. Eventually the fish may die. It is a contagious disease. Increase the water temperature by 2-3 degrees to retard the bacterial growth, increase the oxygen level and finally medicate the water. You might have to disinfect the entire tank after recovery.

To keep your tank healthy and thriving, you will have to be observant about your fish and sensitive to the common symptoms. It is easier to treat a disease in its initial stages. Arowana is a sturdy fish and your quick response to its needs will save a lot of problems.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/arowana/arowanaailments.html

Breeding Arowanas in tanks-Is it a tough task?

2008-11-24T09:19:00.002+07:00

Arowana seem immensely romantic by human standards! They court for weeks and sometimes months before the female lays eggs on slow streambed. The male then fertilizes them and carries them around till they hatch in about two weeks.

Even after that the fry will leave the father’s mouth only for short durations and will immediately return on being signaled by father about the approaching danger. Only when they learn to survive on their own, will the fry leave the father.

In captivity it is difficult to breed arowana. Between the earth pond and tank, the pond yields more success. In a pond environment, a balanced population of male and female is left to make natural pairs. Each pair is possessive and will chase the others away and start laying eggs. It is advised to separate the pairs from other fish right from the beginning and once the fry start swimming freely, they too should be separated.

Romance in tanks
In young arowanas it is difficult to spot the sexes. Generally males are larger and have deeper jaws to hold the eggs and fry. Females have a more rounded body. Arowana mature according to the care they are given, the better the conditions, the earlier they mature. On an average, a male arowana matures in 4-5 years and female 2-3 years.

Arowanas are territorial by nature but larger the number, the less aggressively they behave. To get a pair in your tank you will have to keep 5-6 arowanas together and allow the fish to make their own pairs.

The other way is to choose two fishes that you think are male and female and pair them and hope that they like each other! The ideal way however, if to take six arowanas and grow them together and then hope the pairs will form. However, when a pair is formed, the male will be territorial and chase the other fish away. It will be best if you separate the pair from the others.

Observe for these steps:

1. The pair will court for a few weeks or months. They swim together and might even injure each other when they bite. It is believed that the male bites the female to stimulate hormone secretion in the female.
2. The appetite of the fish will drop, especially the female.
3. Female will start looking swelled up as her abdomen fills up with eggs.
4. The pair will choose a secluded spot in the tank and lay eggs. The area will be less disturbed with weak current. Be careful not to scare the fish when they are spawning. It is advisable to lower the lights and keep the tank covered during the duration. Spawning usually happens in the afternoon.
5. The female will release 50-80 eggs and the male will fertilize them immediately and scoop up as many as he can. The female usually eats up the rest.
6. During hatching the female may chase the male to drive him away from the area and accidentally will harm the eggs. It’s a good idea to separate them at this stage.
7. The fry will hatch in two weeks.

The fry will leave the father’s mouth once they are independent and you can feed them bloodworms. It is also good to separate the fry from the main tank at this stage. Breeding arowanas is not simple. Ensure that the water conditions are consistent when you separate the fishes and encourage them to first pair and then, the fry to develop, away from parents. If you succeed, the results are extremely rewarding.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/arowana/breedingarowana.html

How to feed the Arowana?

2008-11-21T08:54:00.002+07:00

Arowanas are difficult fish to maintain because of their feeding habits and amount they consume. These fish prefer live food or at least the food should float. They generally don’t go to the bottom for food and this is the reason they can be made to share the tank with bottom dwellers.

Young arowanas feed well on live or frozen brine shrimp, black worms and small fish. As they grow, they feed on larger fish and have been seen feeding on frogs, and low flying bats and small birds.

Suitable foods for arowana include meatworms, crickets, grasshoppers, locus, garden worms, fly, small frogs, small fish (limited quantities), and shrimps with shells. Some arowana may take floating fish food.

Arowana grows almost as quickly as it eats but the more it eats, the more the effect on its color and size. Long-term health of the fish is, however, compromised by overfeeding. You will have to work out a balanced diet that will maintain good health, color and size in your arowana. You must not overfeed your fish.

Parental strains of arowana determine the color potential of the fish but it must be given a healthy diet that will not restrict its potential.

Useful feeding tips

1. Arowana fed on prawns and bee shrimps develop a nice red color.

2. Don’t thaw and refreeze food since it loses its freshness.

3. Avoid contaminated food by using only farm raised crickets and cockroaches.

4. Quarantine live food for a week before feeding it your arowana to avoid any parasites.

5. Frogs are very nutritious for arowana but make sure they are not poisonous.

6. 70% food for these fish must be live to help them with a healthy growth.

7. Don’t let the food accumulate in the tank, as this will pollute the tank. Use a net to remove the waste.

8. Drop food gradually in the tank so that the fish catch it before it reaches the bottom levels.

9. Arowanas should be fed twice a day when they are small and once a day after they become 14” long.

Keeping live food in Arowana tank
Crickets-Hide this favorite food of arowana in crumpled newspaper or folded eggshell, not introducing too many together. Shrimps/Prawns-will kill each other for feeding so avoid overcrowding. Place them at the base and break their sharp pincers before putting them in the tank.

ealworms (Tenebrio Molitor) –Keep them dry as wetness kills them. You can even breed them at home.

Small Frogs- Remember to quarantine frogs for a week before feeding them to the fish. Ensure that they are not poisonous. Frogs can survive in clean water without food for several days.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/arowana/feedingarowana.html

Providing a home for the Arowana

2008-11-19T09:59:00.002+07:00

Arowana is not a fish for new enthusiasts. The rate at which this fish grows and the size it attains can be difficult to cope with.

Arowana requires a large water tank since it will spend a large part of its time swimming on the surface. The most important requirement of an arowana tank is a tight lid. These fish are famous jumpers and are in fact rumored to prey low flying bats in the wild. Once your fish attains adulthood, you might even have to lock the lid of your tank at feeding time!

Water conditions

To thrive, arowanas need a pH between 6.0 to 6.5 and a temperature range of 75 to 86 degrees. You also need to monitor the arowana water conditions, as there are good chances of water getting contaminated with fish and feed waste.

The water filter has to be of good quality and should be able to handle the large tank you will need for the arowana. It is difficult to filter arowana tank because the volume is high and you need quite a circulation. Consistent tank conditions have been found to be most helpful with arowana maintenance. You might need to change the water at least once a week to maintain this fish. Arowana can live for 20 years in a well-maintained tank.

Ten tips:

1. Keep arowanas singly or in a community of at least six because these fishes are territorial and do not tolerate many fishes.
2. Tank size should be large enough to accommodate your quickly growing fishes. Because of the size, it is more important to decide on the location before your purchase the aquarium. There should be least amount of bumping within the tank!
3. Active nitrogen cycle in a clean tank is seen to help with the development.
4. Arowanas can survive in both planted and bare tank but you do need gravel.
5. Weekly water changes are necessary.
6. Keep the lights low for this fish, also see that light changes are slow in the tank so that your fish are not spooked.
7. The importance of a tight lid cannot be over emphasized.
8. You can heat the water to improve the metabolic rate and facilitate feeding and growth.
9. Protect the heater with a case, as arowanas are powerful fish!
10. Do not introduce any sharp objects in the tank.

Arowanas are supposed to bring luck to the owners and you are going to need a lot of that to maintain and accommodate this beautiful fish. Giving them a home can be expensive but is immensely satisfying. These living fossils can give you immense joy.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/arowana/arowanahome.html

10 things to watch for in Arowanas

2008-11-18T08:42:00.001+07:00

To say that arownas are oddballs in the fish community is totally in sync with the picture these fish present. These dinosaurs of fish tanks look like living fossils are intriguing to watch and have in your tank. They are also very expensive fish so when you buy them, make sure you are getting the best fish. When choosing these fish for your tank, look for the following criteria:

1. Body shape: A good shape in arowana implies a broad body with proportionate fins and a pointed mouth along with a slope between the head and back. The broad look is preferred because it corresponds to the arowanas aggressive and powerful nature and image, however, there are variations in species.

2. Color: All species of arowana should be brightly colored and should look lustrous.

3. Swimming posture: Most people are attracted to arowana because of the way it swims. A fish with a good posture will swim without effort and will make graceful moderately slow turns in the tank. Its body will be straight, horizontal and the fish will swim in the upper level of the tank, close to the surface. At no point should the fish appear to be stiff or jerky. An arowana looks truly majestic when swimming.

4. Tail / Fins: Always avoid prolonged clamped fins in arowana. Fins should be proportionate to the body and must be fully open when the fish swims. The color should be strong and smooth. There are variations in species.

5. Barbels: Notice the color of barbels , it should be similar to the body color. Strong, long barbels indicate good health. In addition, they should be of equal length and point upwards.

6. Eyes: Avoid fish with overly protruding eyes. Eyes should be proportionate to the body, clear and both eyes should be of the same size and shape.

7. Mouth and lips: Arowana mouth is large, pointing up, and arrogant looking but avoid choosing arownas with protruding upper or lower lip. The mouth and lips of arowana should close tightly without a gap.

8. Scales: Fish scales should not be crooked and should be bright. They should be large and distinctive from each other.

9. Gill Cover: The gill edge should be circular and when breathing, the motion should not be too obvious. The gill cover is smooth and flat to the fish body. Radiance of gills in fish is indicative of good health.

10. Teeth: Arowana teeth should be arranged neatly and should be in line with the jaw line.

A healthy arowana will look like that — HEALTHY. Watch out for signs of fatigue lethargy and avoid fish that doesn’t look in its element. Remember that arowana is a slightly aggressive fish that jumps out of water for its food. The fish you select should exhibit the power and arrogance of the specie and all healthy arowana will.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/arowana/10things.html

Arowanas-the dinosaurs of fish tanks

2008-11-18T08:25:00.002+07:00

Arowana, also known as Dragon Fish, or bony tonguefish, is a rare and odd-looking fish that outgrows tanks quickly, earning it the reputation of dinosaur! All known species of the fish are known to grow to be more than 36” long

Arowana is a fresh water fish that is actually referred to as a living fossil. It has an elongated body and a bony head. It is called a bony tonguefish because it has a toothed bone on the floor of the mouth, the tongue, equipped with teeth that bite against the teeth on the roof of the mouth.

The hunters
Arowanas are carnivores. They are excellent jumpers and some owners claim that they can be trained to jump for food like dogs! Of course, it a dangerous game with the number of teeth this fish has! Be extremely careful when you feed your Arowana. The ‘finger food’ joke is not a joke at all with fish. All species of Arowana are large and the fishes are rumored to catch low flying bats and small birds.

Different strokes
Arowana is of the following types: Asian Arowana, Australian Arowana, Silver Arowana, Black Arowana, and African Arowana. Asian Arowana is rare and most expensive since they are endangered and protected species of the fish.

The two species that are commonly found in the pet stores are silver and black Arowana. These fishes are sold when they are very young. In fact some are sold with their yolk sack still attached! But the fishes grow very quickly and you will need a tank that can accommodate a 30”-40” fish.

Watch out
Arowana is not an aggressive fish but before you decide to keep an Arowana at home, you must consider the following:
1. It eats a lot and as it grows, it eats live smaller fishes in the tank.
2. If you want your Arowana to share the tank, you will have to keep fishes like leporinus, black sharks, red finned cigar sharks, bala sharks, plecos, giant gouramis, goldfish, oscars, pacus, freshwater stingrays, gars, tinfoil barbs, silver dollars, certain loaches and certain eels. Arowana will generally not eat a fish it can’t swallow.

When young, Arowana are fragile but past this stage, they are the hardiest fresh water fish. They rarely get sick (though they are susceptible to white spots) and have a life span of about 20 years. They look like prehistoric monsters and that perhaps is the charm of this fish.

Arowana is not a fish for beginners. It has weird eating habits and requires a lot of care and its space needs are truly dynamic. The dragon fish, as Arowana is often called, is also rumored to bring good luck to the owner. Dragon is a Chinese symbol of good luck and prosperity hence the folklore.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/arowana/dinosaursoffishtank.html

Providing The Best Care For Your Goldfish

2008-11-17T09:12:00.001+07:00

Goldfish care is critical for the health of your goldfish. Unfortunately, goldfish are very vulnerable to disease, with young goldfish even more so.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishcare.html

Create a goldfish home

2008-11-15T09:08:00.002+07:00

Goldfish are often mistreated in the belief that they are sturdy and will survive in all conditions. This belief has led to the death of many fish and disappointment for many owners.

The fact to begin with is: GOLDFISH ARE DIRTY!

4. Gravel: Gravel at the bottom of the tank helps with the oxygen levels in the tank. You should use at least a one-inch layer. Wash the gravel well before you lay it out.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishhome.html

Breeding the perfect goldfish

2008-11-15T08:59:00.002+07:00

Goldfidh is a cyprinid—soft-finned mainly freshwater fishes typically having toothless jaws. These fishes lay adhesive eggs that stick to aquatic vegetation. The fry emerge from the eggs within 48-72 hours. It takes the fry about a week to look anything like a fish and then a year before they develop the goldfish color.

Right nutrition and plenty of water (with good oxygen content), help the goldfish to attain sexual maturity. These fish breed after a change in temperature, usually in spring. Goldfish breed themselves if left alone. You must, however, separate the egg as the adults eat their own eggs.

The brreding itself is an interesting process. The male chases and nudges the female to release eggs and then fertilizes the eggs released be her. Some modern breeds can no longer breed on their own owing to their strange shapes. Artifical breeding called ‘hand stripping’ can be used to breed these fish but it is a delicate process and can be dangerous for the fish.

Choose the quality
The idea behind breeding is to develop a breed that is of high quality or should posses certain traits. The choice of the breeding usually depends upon:

- Health of the fish
- Finnage, color, size
- Age of the fish. The younger the better but they should be at least 2 years old.

Culling is done several times to weed out defects from a breed. Its first done when the fish are 6-7 weeks old.

Spotting the fish ready to breed
As eggs begin to develop, you will notice a general swelling in females. The males exhibit tiny bumps (tubercules) on the leading edges of the pectoral fins and on the gill covers. The fish color also looks brighter close to spawning and fishes swim in groups. Sometimes, especially in natural environment like a pond, the fish spawn without any indications but in aquariums, spawning indications can be spotten on careful observation.

When do the fish spawn
Goldfish have been observed to spawn very early in the morning, before sunrise. The factors that trigger spawning are:

• Rainfall
• Drop in water temperature
• Partial water changes
• Moon (full)

A female goldfish will lay thousands of eggs at a time and the spawning last for several hours. For the first few days the fry feed on the attached yolk sack. They remain attched to the hatched surface for about two weeks and as soon as their swim bladder starts functioning, they will swim at various levels of the water body.

Once the fry starts swimming, they have to be fed. Initial diet may contain infusorians or newly hatched brine shrimps. In the first few weeks, the fish need to be fed 3-5 times a day. When they are few weeks old, you can feed them crumbled flake food. Keep a watch on the quality of water as food can dirty the water.

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/breedingperfectgoldfish.html

Did you know that many goldfish are not golden in color?

2008-11-15T08:53:00.002+07:00

So, you have a goldfish and have no idea why is it called a goldfish when it looks orange or whether to keep it in your freshwater aquarium or not!

The color of goldfish depends on the environment it is bred in as well as the light it is exposed to. However, they aren’t really golden – more a combination (or absence) of the two or three types of pigment cells black, yellow and red – that give the Goldfish a variety of color effects. Goldfish can be golden, red, white, bronze and even blue and black.

The Goldfish is a fresh water fish and is the most common aquarium fish. Its scientifuic name is Carassius auratus auratus and it belongs to the carp family. This fish lives in a home aquarium for about six to eight years, though 20 years is a possibility! The maximum that a goldfish has been seen to grow is 23 inches, although generally it is half this length.

The goldfish was first developed in China through interbreeding. Today there are many varieties of this fish with variations in colors, fin and eye configurations. There are wild varieties and those that have to be kept in aquariums. The common varieties are: Common, Black Moor, Bubble Eye, Celestial Eye, Comet, Fantail, Lionhead, Oranda, Pearlscale, Pompom, Ryukin, Shubunkin, Telescope Eye, Ranchu, Panda Moor, and Veiltail.

Pond dweller
Goldfish is often a favorite pond fish because it is hardy and inexpensive. The colors and small size also add to its popularity. Common pond goldfish are Common, London and Bristol shubunkins, Jikin, Wakin, comet and fantail.

These fishes survive in ponds all the year round in temperate and subtropical climates so long as the water doesn’t freeze solid during winters. Most often you can avoid this by being careful about the depth of the pond.

A deep enough pond will not freeze completely. In such conditions, the fish moves to the bottom of the pond and if your pond has a good plant system, the fishes will survive on the oxygen generated by the plants. They might eat less during this phase.

Aquarium favorite
All over the world, fish enthusiasts love Goldfish for its hardy nature. Goldfish can also live in unheated water. The problem with Goldfish is that they create a lot of mess in the aquarium. Goldfish are habitual eaters but cannot disgest excess protein. This is relesed in the aquarium and toxic levels build up quickly and kill the fish. You need to have a good filter in your aquarium and feed just the required amount of food to the fish.

Even though, goldfish can survive in cold water, it cannot withstand rapid temperature changes. Be careful to provide consistent temperature conditions to your fish.

Goldfish also find it diffciult to survive in small confined areas like bowls. The toxic levels build up quickly in such a system and poison the fish.

The world record for a goldfish is 49 years, so if you are losing your fish in weeks, you have to check the care you are giving!

Article Source: http://www.tothefish.com/goldfish/goldfishcolour.html

2008-11-14T10:44:00.001+07:00

Asian arowana (Scleropages formosus) also known as the dragon fish is very popular in Asian culture due to its resemblance to a Chinese dragon. Due to its popularity many of the wild Asian arowanas have been captured and its numbers are declining. In 1996 it was put on the endangered species list. There are 4 different varieties of Asian arowana divided mainly by color; the green found in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, and Malaysia, the silver Asian (not to be confused with the silver arowana) found in Borneo, the red-tailed golden is found in northern Sumatra, Indonesia, and the red, super red, blood red, or chili red is known only to be found in the upper part of the Kapuas River in western Borneo, Indonesia. Due to the differences in color and location a study in 2003 suggested that these be divided into different species, however as of today they are still one species.

Asian arowanas grow up to 90cm, 35 inches feeding on other fish and insects, shrimp and small frogs. They have a mouth similar to a drawbridge where males also protect their eggs (mouthbrooders). However breeding in captivity has been proven difficult. Two reported successful attempts took place, after three failed attempts, in an 18′x18′x3.5′ outdoor pond with a pH of 6.5-7.0, temperature between 24-30° C (75-86° F). . Because of their size they need very large tank set ups with air tight tops to prevent jumping out. They are also territorial and should be kept with animals of similar size.

Article Source: http://aquariapro.com/20080917/freshwater/bonytongues/arowanas/asian-arowana-or-dragon-fish-scleropages-formosus

Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum)

2008-11-14T10:39:00.001+07:00

Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) are the most common in the aquarium trade due to the fact that they are less costly than other species of arowana. However. a very large tank is still required. These guys can reach over 3 feet in length and can jump out of tanks so for a healthy adult arowana the bigger the tank the better but nothing under 150 gallons should be considered adequate. They should never have to fold their bodies to make a turn in a properly sized tank and like to have enough length to swim back and forth looking for food. Young arowanas should be fed very small insects, such as wingless fruit flies or crickets. They use the barbells on their mouths to feel for disturbances on the water surface so they need very very still water. In an aquarium with constant water flow only the strongest baby arowana will survive fighting and forcing his siblings away from the tank surface to starve. As adults they should eat live crickets, shrimp, or pellets. Many are often fed feeder fish, however, feeder fish can carry disease and easily spread it to your fish. There are specific pellets made for arowanas that help prevent dropeye, which forms in aquarium habitats due to the fish looking downwards for sinking food rather than up to the surface for insects like it would in the wild. It is recommended the arowanas be kept either as a lone arowana with other fish as tank mates or in groups of 5 or more since they do have a fighting tendency towards their own species. They are also more comfortable in well planted tanks. It is recommended that the plants be put on the ends to the tanks to stop the arowanas from hitting the sides and damaging their barbells or causing lip calluses. Other fish do well as tank mates as long as they are bigger than the arowana’s mouth and do not nip at the arowanas fins. Arowanas are sensitive to water conditions and should have less of their water changed more often to keep their water chemicals balanced and nonfluctuating. Some say 25-30% 1-2 times per week, however in a large enough tank without over population or over feeding chemical levels should be relatively neutral. The temperature should reflect the tropical climate of South America in the high 70s. They do not do well in cool or cold water. In the wild they are caught in Columbia and entered into the pet trade and further down river are caught in Brazil as a food source. Due to their dropping numbers both countries have put limits on fishing season. Many arowana enthusiasts also have stopped endorsing fish stores that sell young arowanas with their yolk sacks still intact because in order to get these fish when they are this young they would have to kill the father fish and the young are less likely to survive without his care.

Article Source: http://aquariapro.com/20080917/freshwater/bonytongues/arowanas/silver-arowana-osteoglossum-bicirrhosum

Gasteropelecidae fish care and aquariums

2008-11-13T09:22:00.001+07:00

How to

Tank maintenance is based on the fish type. However, today’s tanks have switches that enable you to change the water temperature. In addition, tanks today enable you to dim or intensify tank lights with switches. Water is purified via a filtration system. The quality of water is controlled by electronic devices. Automated features enable you to distribute food, as well as fertilize dosage. The water resistant tanks today come in a variety of shapes in size, and use electrical advanced solutions to maintain safety. In addition, tanks today enable you to stock plants and fish of all species. The lights today can be adjusted to accommodate most fish types. Still, fish are different in many ways. To understand this, you must have an overall ideal of what the 22,000 species prefer. The fish types include the freshwater fish, which its counterparts are Coldwater fish and the tropical fish. Seawater or saltwater fish is a different species, i.e. the fish prefer dissimilar water conditions and meals. In addition, the dangerous species on the market must also be learnt before you attempt to purchase these breeds. The dangerous species include the Piranhas. In addition, we have fish that fly, which is our next subject.

The fish that fly
Gasteropelecidae include the Hatchetfishes. The fish are marked for its pressed exceptionally deepen figure. This fish primarily habitats in the northern South America. The fish is also called the flying fish, since he is proficient in flapping his chest fins skillfully. The gliders can escape tank water and land fifteen feet away from the aquarium. Therefore, it is wise to keep a hood on your tank to avoid loss.

Akin to the Hatchetfish is the Carnegiella Marthae. This popularly known Blackwing Hatchetfish originated in the Amazons, Orinoco, Peru, Rio Negro, and Venezuela. The Hatchetfish from this breed grow at 1 and ¼ inches in size. The Hatchetfish are small fishes, which have a black chest. The ridge like parts or keel is also black. The tank species relate better in peaceful waters, or fish of his breed. The fish is small, and has a quiet and calm nature. Hatchetfish of this breed will accept all foods, and prefers soft water condition, yet will relate to insignificant acidy waters. The fish breeds similar to the Hyphessobrycon. There is no available information as to how the fish breed however.

Gasteropelecus Levis or the Silver Hatchetfish comes from the lower regions of the Amazon. This fish grows around 2 ½ inches in size. The silver colors of this fish are setoff by blue-blackish thin parallel stripes. As long as tank conditions are good this fish can habitat in communal tanks. The vigorous fish feeds in the same way as other Hatchetfishes. The water conditions are expected to be the same as other Hatchetfishes as well. This fish in particular has no records of breeding in aquariums.

Outside of the Hatchetfish rests the Family of Cyprinidae. This family includes the Carp-like fish and the Carps. The fish come from a large body of bony families, which spread out through the lands of North America, Asia, Europe, and Africa. This classical fish have pharyngeal bones, which make up for teeth. A few types of Carp fish have a set of barbel fins, which make up for adipose fins. Carps grow up to 8 feet.

The Indian Mahseer Carp known as Barbus tor is the largest Carp breed. Carps are freshwater fish, which includes the family of minnows. The fish sometimes have round scales, which include soft fins. As well, the fish have toothless jaws. Minnows are freshwater baitfish akin to the carps.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Salt water aquarium packages

2008-11-13T09:15:00.002+07:00

When potential aquarists start looking into the possibility of starting their own salt water aquarium there is one thing which is often quite daunting - equipment.

There is a lot more equipment which is required in a salt water aquarium, especially a salt water reef aquarium.

Equipment requirements can be but not limited to :

* Heaters
* Water movement devices
* Lighting
* Protein skimmers
* Calcium reactors
* Filtration devices
* Auto top up devices
* Auto feeders
* Nitrate reducers
* Phosphate reducers
* Stirrers
* Reverse osmosis units
* Computer controllers
* And more…….

With all the information you need to know to start a successful salt water aquarium then only thing you realistically need to know about equipment is what they are for, what is a definitive requirement and what is not.

Of course all equipment is made by various manufacturers and this post cannot go into the detail as to which is the better manufacturer to use and why.

For the potential salt water aquarist who is not really that interested in technology and let’s face it not everyone is (except me!) and just wants a salt water aquarium in their home there is another way.

There are salt water aquarium packages which you can purchase. These salt water aquarium packages come in various shapes and sizes and combine everything you need in one handy take home package. The only thing which you will need with one of these packages is the water, salt, filtration and livestock itself. There are some salt water aquarium packages which even come with a reverse osmosis unit, some salt and man made filtration or natural filtration.

With these salt water aquarium packages you really do have everything you need. You simply purchase one, take it home (or have it delivered) set it up, add the salt water, go through the nitrogen cycle and then slowly stock it - easy eh!

The majority of these salt water aquarium packages keep the majority of the equipment either underneath the aquarium in the sump or in a specially designed rear panel which hides all the required equipment from view. The only trouble with the latter is that they do tend to remove a bit of the width of the tank - normally 3-4 inches. Personally if I was going to purchase a package like this I would opt for the sump one, but it really is up to personal choice.

Of course you do not need to go for a predetermined package deal you can approach your local fish shop and ask them to design you a salt water aquarium package. You will be surprised how many shops will accommodate this.

In closing if you are not interested in technology and purely want a salt water aquarium to look after and enjoy but do not want the hassle of purchasing all the required equipment separately then these salt water aquarium packages are certainly worth further investigation.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Starting A Marine Aquarium - The Very First Considerations

2008-11-13T09:04:00.002+07:00

Seeing pictures of a healthy marine fish only or reef aquarium in books or on the internet, or even better, in reality at a public aquarium will cause just about anyone to appreciate the beauty and general fascination of them. Some people will wonder if they could have one, and the thought will shortly disappear. Others, however, will not forget so easily and will want to delve further into the possibility of having their own home aquarium.

If the potential aquarist knows a friend who already has a healthy marine aquarium, then there is a source of advice available already. The friend will already have been through all the research and considerations. Often, however, the potential aquarist will want to find out for him/herself. That is very good, as the aquarium system will be understood thoroughly. Then there may not be a known marine aquarist available, so what is the first move? Dashing to the local shop and buying an aquarium and a few bits of equipment that the shop says is needed is totally incorrect.

The first move is to follow a planning scaffold. This scaffold will be the foundation for all the decisions that need to be made in building the system. There are quite a few decisions along the way and things can get a little confusing, even to someone who is experienced in the freshwater aquarium field. The scaffold will help.

The scaffold has to prepare the budding marine aquarist so that indicative costing on basic equipment provision can be made. Often marine aquarists have equipment laying about. This could have been caused by upgrading because the original equipment was not adequate and needed to be replaced. Money expended that perhaps need not have been.

So, the scaffold then. The following is a list of headings and basic notes. It does not attempt and is not intended to open a comprehensive path from zero to a fantastic fish only or reef tank. What it does do is give a lead to follow on the way towards a successful aquarium. No doubt extra considerations will arise on the way, and that’s as it should be, it means the planning is working. Each stage of planning needs individual consideration, and there will often be more than one decision to make. On the way, research using books and/or the internet is useful or necessary.

Where is it practical to site the aquarium?
Try to choose a location away from direct sunlight, to assist with proper lighting control. There should not be heavy and/or noisy household traffic passing (reasonable traffic is acceptable). There needs to be a reliable power supply available, ie. power outlets. Generally easy access to the aquarium is required. If floors are suspended, consider floor strength - aquariums full of seawater are heavy!

What size aquarium?
The aquarium should not stand on ordinary furniture, but on a properly designed stand. The aquarium may need a hood. These need to be taken into account. Then the available space for the aquarium can be considered.

What type of system?
The system can be fish only or reef. This decision affects other later decisions. Most will opt for a reef.

Sump or no sump?
A sump is a small aquarium that is attached to the main one. It supplies extra water capacity to the system, and allows heaters, sand beds and protein skimmers to be kept away from the display aquarium. The sump can be beside or underneath the display aquarium. A sump on any type system is highly recommended. (If a sump is to be used, the main aquarium will need to be drilled to allow plumbing to take water from the aquarium to the sump. It is then pumped back again.) Note: if a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum (a raised DSB) is to be employed, the sand bed area should be at least 2/3rds of the base area of the main aquarium. The sand bed should be at least 4″ deep. Consider the cost for the fine sand for the DSB. A DSB in the sump is highly recommended. Leave enough room for a partitioned area for the seawater return pump.

Lighting?
Is the system to be fish only or a reef? If fish only, then two marine fluorescents are sufficient. If reef then:

Hard corals.
Best lighting is halide, supplemented by actinic fluorescent tubes. T5 fluorescent tubes can be used (marine white and actinic equally mixed) but they do not penetrate the seawater as deeply.

Soft corals.
It is sufficient to use T5 fluorescent lighting (actinic and white mixed). Halide lighting can be used, however, and will not be detrimental (ensure corals exposed are light demanding varieties).

Net seawater capacity of aquarium and sump (if used)? This is easily calculated once the aquarium size and sump have been decided. This gallonage will be excessive as, when rocks and sand are added, it will decrease. Therefore, reduce the amount by 10%. This will still not be correct, but does give a reasonable allowance for displacement.

Seawater circulation?
The seawater in the display aquarium will need to be circulated for the health of the inhabitants whatever they are, but particularly in a reef system. It is recommended that a minimum of two powerheads are used to achieve this. The turnover of seawater in a reef needs to be around ten to twenty times the net capacity of the display aquarium (exclude the sump) per hour, depending on coral occupants.. In fish only systems, it can be less.

Protein skimmer?
A protein skimmer is essential for most systems(*), in particular where there is inexperience. The device is very useful as it helps significantly towards high water quality. The protein skimmer should be sized for around twice the net seawater capacity of the aquarium plus sump (if used). Now that the use of a sump (or not) has been decided, consider whether to use a hang-on or stand alone skimmer.
(* some mud based system designs do not require a skimmer.)

Heating?
The net gallonage of the system is known, so the heating need can be considered. (Note: it is best to purchase two heaters as this is a good safety feature for the aquarium inhabitants. Each heater should be one half of the total heating requirement.) In warm areas where temperatures are always above 80 deg F, the use of a seawater cooler (chiller) will replace heaters.

Return pump?
This only applies if using a sump. Seawater, once it has flowed to the sump, needs to be returned to the main aquarium. A pump is required for this. As a guide, the flow through the sump should be two or three times the net capacity of the system per hour. When considering the pump, remember to factor in the lift, that is the height from the pump level to the highest point that the returning seawater reaches before it enters the main aquarium.

‘Live’ rock.
This is used for filtration purposes (it is excellent for this) and for the construction of the reef. It can also be used in a fish only system. Allow 1½ lbs for each gallon that is in the entire system. There are other filtration methods, but ‘live’ rock coupled with a DSB in a sump is highly recommended.

Reverse osmosis (R/O) unit?
The R/O unit is a tap water filtration device that removes nearly all (around 95 to 98%) unwanted contaminants. Therefore the seawater mix is at its best from the start. It is highly recommended that R/O water is always used, including the first fill of the aquarium. R/O units come in different gallons per day outputs. Remember that usually the aquarium is filled completely only once. The normal routine water change amount is 10% of the net system gallonage weekly.

Dry salt mix?
There are several makes on the market. If keeping a reef system, obtain one that is ‘designed’ for reefs, as additional attention has been given to calcium content etc. Fish only systems can use ‘standard’ mixes or as described above.

Make a list.
As each item is gone through, find out and write down the likely cost. If it is electrical, also write down the wattage (W).

The evidence. When all items are priced, add them up. This represents a general guideline to the cost of setting up. If electrical, add up the wattage. Divide the total wattage by 1000, this will give kilowatts. The cost of electricity per kilowatt will be known. Multiply the number of kilowatts, including any fraction, by the cost per kilowatt, this is the approximate electrical running cost of the system per day. To get weekly, multiply by seven. Monthly, multiply by four. Etc. (Note: lights can be considered as being on 50% of the day. Heaters/coolers will not be on all the time, but it is difficult to determine a guideline percentage.)

OK. The list is there and it indicates the guideline aquarium equipment cost and electrical running cost of the system. These will not be completely accurate but near enough to either dissuade the desire to have an aquarium or to go ahead. There are other costs, of course. For example, no account has been taken of the fish and/or corals that are to inhabit the aquarium. Then additional equipment, often considered later, might be obtained, such as a calcium reactor, a de-nitrator, or a canister filter etc. Maybe coarse coral sand, ½ to 1″ deep, will be used as a decoration in the display aquarium.

Nevertheless, the scaffold will have achieved its purpose, which is to generally guide the new aquarist down a path that cuts its way through what can be a confusing beginning.

After the scaffold, there is still plenty to be done. Many answers can be found in the listed articles on this site (http://www.aquaristsonline.com).

Appropriate articles can be worked through one by one. Any remaining questions can go on the forum. The internet is an excellent resource for knowledge. Typing in a name, eg, marine aquarium lighting etc, into a search engine should produce a good response. Then, of course, there are books. Nothing like an hour of bedtime reading!

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Learn About Goldfish Diseases For Your Fishes Health And Longevity

2008-11-11T10:40:00.002+07:00

Recognizing the signs of these goldfish diseases will help you treat your fish sooner and give him a better chance for a full recovery. Having a goldfish as a pet can be very rewarding and if you want to take the best care of him, you want to be aware of the

various goldfish diseases out there so you can recognize them in your fish. Knowing what to look for can help save your fish.

Fin rot can happen to any fish and goldfish are no exception. As the name implies, this appears as a white rotted edge on the fins. What actually happens here is that bacteria gets into a cut on the fin and it gets infected - just like you could get an infection at the site of a cut. If you keep your tanks water quality in tip top shape then your fish will probably not be affected by this.

While it’s not really a disease, one problem your goldfish can suffer from is constipation. Goldfish have a delicate digestive system so it’s not uncommon for this to happen. To avoid constipation, presoak their pellet food. Make sure you give your goldfish lots of fiber - try feeding him cut up peas or some greens to help avoid this problem.

Swim bladder disorder and constipation both have the same symptoms of your goldfish always floating to the top of the tank. Goldfish have a swim bladder which can, at times, become inflated causing them to float upwards. You can avoid this problem with good water quality and putting some fiber in the fishes diet.

One of the more common goldfish diseases is called Ich. This looks like tiny grains of salt on your fish and is actually a parasite. The parasite drop to the bottom of the tank and can multiply rapidly. If you do regular water changes your chances for Ich are less likely as they only are a problem with fish that are stressed.

Dropsy is a disease, a bacterial infection actually, that can affect your goldfish. This bacteria works from the inside out. You might notice the scales on your goldfish sticking out. Once you notice your fish has dropsy you should treat him immediately, in many cases it is usually too late. One early indication is that the fishes eyes pop out so if you notice this seek treatment immediately.

Anchor worm is another parasite to watch for. If your fish is rubbing himself on the gravel or decorations it could be an attempt to dislodge these critters. Anchor worm appears on your fish as a red ring with a white stick protruding.

Another disease you should watch for is hole in the head disease. As the name implies, this starts off with small holes in the fishes head. This disease causes your fish to become lethargic and will eventually kill him unless treated.

Getting treatment for any of these goldfish diseases early will insure your finned friends good health. Making sure you do regular water changes, and vacuum the tank regularly will help keep your fish from getting stressed and add to their overall health.

Article Source: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/learn-about-goldfish-diseases-for-your-fishes-health-and-longevity.html

Common Goldfish Diseases

2008-11-11T10:10:00.003+07:00

Even if you have had goldfish all of your life, it is easy not to know that goldfish can get sick. But just as any other living organism can, goldfish can acquire diseases as well. Goldfish have a longer life span than many people think, but because they can be so inexpensive and easy to replace, very rarely do goldfish live to their fullest potential. The reason why so many goldfish die when they are relatively young is because of the fact that they can get diseases, and their owners may not even notice that anything is wrong with them.

Goldfish Ich or Ichtyopthirius is one of the most common goldfish diseases of all. Goldfish Ich appears as small white beads on a goldfish’s scales, and it can go unnoticed very easily because it can look like small bubbles or even pieces of goldfish gravel. In all actuality, these small white specks are organisms that act as goldfish parasites. They live off of the nutrients of goldfish and after having attached to their scales for some time, the Ich fall off of the goldfish and usually reproduce in the floor covering of the aquarium. The new Ich attaches to the goldfish, and the cycle repeats itself. Ich can easily get out of control if it isn’t taken care of, as the organisms reproduce very quIchly. This disease is very common, so if you think your pet suffers from goldfish Ich, chances are you are correct. While many people are hesitant to take their goldfish to the vet, you do want to at least talk to your local pet store or pet supply store about your Ich problem, as it causes holes in the flesh of the goldfish, eventually leading to death if left untreated.

Another of the common goldfish diseases is fin rot, often called tail rot. If your goldfish fight one another, they are at a higher risk for fin rot as it is caused by existing injuries to your fish’s fins. Fin rot occurs when a bacterial infection occurs in the injured part of the fin; the bacterium slowly eats away at the tissues of the fin from the edges in, until it reaches the body. From there, this bacterial infection can spread and start eating away at the body of your goldfish. So needless to say fin rot is a fatal goldfish disease. Please do consult the services of your local pet store as they may be able to help you treat your fish.

While large eyes are characteristic of some tank fish, this is not so for regular goldfish. If your goldfish’s eyes protrude a bit more than you think they should, they may have a disease called Pop-Eye. Goldfish tuberculosis may be to blame for Pop-Eye, as are some other diseases. If you feel like your fish’s eyes protrude a bit more than they should, seek treatment for your pet right away. You might want to move your fish to its own tank for a while, until you can figure out what it is about the fish’s health or environment that is triggering the Pop-Eye.

Article Source: http://www.fish-tank-guide.com/goldfish/goldfishdiseases.html

Popular Aquarium Fish Accessories

2008-11-10T09:02:00.002+07:00

Many homes and business offices around the country are home to a number of aquarium fishes. Aquarium fish are often purchased for decoration purposes in many offices or for pets in homes where other pets may be prohibited. Whatever the reason for purchasing an aquarium fish they make a great pet; however, when purchasing aquarium fish there are some accessories that may need to be purchased.

Aquarium fish are most often purchased from a pet store; however, there are a number of other locations that sell aquarium fish. It is possible to purchase them from the pet department of a traditional retail store or from a fish store. When an aquarium fish is purchased it is likely that new fish owners will be informed or provided with a list of instructions that may include any needed aquarium fish accessories.

When aquarium fish are purchased they will need an aquarium. Aquariums come in all different sizes and each fish may have their own needs. Simply by asking a sales associate or researching the type of fish online it is possible to determine the correct aquarium size that will be needed.

Many aquariums require a pump to keep the aquarium fish healthy. Aquarium pumps can typically be purchased at the same locations where aquarium fish are sold. Some aquarium pumps are louder than others. Fish owners who will be keeping their aquarium fish in their bedroom or work office are encouraged to consider purchasing a silent pump.

In addition to an aquarium pump, many fish owners need to purchase an aquarium filter. An aquarium filter will help to keep the aquarium water clean and healthy. Clean and healthy water will help in keeping aquarium fish healthy and it may even extend their life.

When aquarium fish are living in a home it is likely that their tank will always stay at or around room temperature. There are many offices that have their heat turned down when no one is working. This atmosphere may require an aquarium heater. An aquarium heater can be used to help keep aquarium fish at a comfortable heated water level similar to room temperature.

Aquarium fish owners are also likely to purchase aquarium lightening fixtures for their tank. These fixtures are often used for decoration or to provide a small amount of light at night. Aquarium lighting fixtures can come in a wide selection of different shapes and sizes.

Aquarium decorations are another popular aquarium fish accessory that many fish owners choose to purchase. Simple items such as plastic plants or stones can be purchased, but more elaborate decorations can also be purchased. There are even decorations that allow aquarium fish to swim in or through them.

Aquarium fish accessories are often considered optional items because they may not necessarily have to be purchased. It is important to remember different aquarium fish may need different items or surroundings. The best way to determine which type of aquarium fish accessories need to be purchased is by speaking to a store employee or researching each aquarium fish type online. The best way to care for your aquarium fish is by knowing exactly what they need to survive.

Article Source: http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/3-30-2006-92263.asp

Tropical Fish

2008-11-10T08:58:00.001+07:00

Enjoying and maintaining fish in your aquarium...

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So many elements effect the raising of tropical fish. Choosing the right ones and making the right decisions is crucial for success. Setting up an aquarium, selecting the fish, plants and algae, feeding the fish and breeding the fish are the major aspects of this hobby.

Aquarium
The aquarium elements depend on the fish one intends to have. Many parts form an aquarium and they all need to be considered seriously before they are selected:
Glass – Gravel - Hood – Heater – Thermometer – Bulbs – Filters - Cleaning Equipment – Nets – Water Test Kit – Small Container

Selecting the Fish
You can opt to have only one type of tropical fish. Problems are limited if you choose to go that way. But with tropical fish, many believe, variety is an essential element in raising fish in an aquarium.

One needs to be very careful when deciding which fish to raise in one’s own aquarium. It is obvious that not all fish get along with each other well, and selecting the right fish is a crucial decision one needs to make. Research on various tropical fish in respect of habits and behaviour is a must before hurrying to the store.

Buying the fish
Once at the store, there are many things to look for. Here is a list of guidelines:
1. Don’t buy fish which reside in dirty tanks
2. Watch out for white spots and eaten fins
3. Fish eyes should be clear
4. Movement should be linear with their fins in an upright position
5. No dead fish in the tank

Plants and Algae
By many ignored, but a very important aspect for tropical fish is to have the right plants and algae in the fish habitat. The ideal is to get rooted plants with roots already in place. This way, fish are provided with plants straight away and their survival rate is much higher. Ideally, tall plants are placed at the rear corners of the aquarium and the smaller and shorter ones at the front.

Several types of plants and algae exist, and choosing will always depend on your likings and on the character of the fish one intends to have.

Feeding the fish
Feeding tropical fish is an art in itself. Many fish don’t die because of lack of food, but as a result of food abundance. Giving the right amount of food is important as selecting the food. The market for tropical fish food is quite large and there are foods for several types of fish.

Breeding
There is only one way fish can breed in your aquarium, that is, giving them the right environment to do so. There isn’t better proof that the aquarium is in good shape than having fish breed in it. You can see when one has done a good job by the results the fish themselves will give to the owner.

There are so many tropical fish that one can never feel completely fulfilled as there is always some species one would like to have as part of his/her collection. The other items that form part pf having tropical fish, like the aquarium itself, the plants involved, and the various accessories, make this hobby a vast and interesting one without ever getting b

How to Keep Predator Fish

2008-11-09T09:48:00.002+07:00

Keeping fish can be lots of fun, but no one wants to buy a new fish just to have it eaten or have it eat your other fish, so here is a guide on things to do to ensure this does not happen.

Many people like to have fish for pets because they are low maintenance, and can be very relaxing to watch them swim. Most first time fish enthusiast like to keep cold water fish, because they are cheap and most of the different types of these fish will get along together. These fish have some bright colors and have some very fancy fins, but they are mostly large goldfish, and eventually switch to tropical fish to get a larger selection of fish. But keeping tropical fish can be a bit of a gamble, the fish cost more and some of them are very aggressive and will eat your other fish.

There are more different types of tropical fish for you to choose from, and they have a larger variety of colors then cold water fish and keeping them in an aquarium together with other tropical fish does not have to be a gamble, it is not like a trip to the casino to play blackjack, if you do things right there is no gambling involved at all.

The first thing you need to do is some reading before purchasing any fish for your tank. Reading about fish will give you an idea of what species of fish eat other fish, and which ones do not. It will also let you know which meat eating fish will live with what other fish, and make it less of a gamble that you are just buying one fish an expensive meal.

Cichlids are a type of fish that eat other fish but they are a school fish and prefer to be in a tank with other Cichlids, but you want all the other Cichlids to be about the same size, or one day you will come home from a day of playing the most Popular Casino Games in the casino to find several fish missing and one fat fish swimming around slowly.

Cichlids are a surface to medium depth fish. This means they will swim on the top and middle of the tank and will generally not go to the bottom of the tank for very long.

So many people with Cichlids will get a bottom swimmer to fill the tank out. A very popular type of bottom swimmers is catfish. There are many different fish in the species of catfish. Some of these fish are non aggressive and do not get very big, but a fish like this may not be aggressive enough to be in a tank of Cichlids.

You may want to get a more aggressive type of catfish, but if you get a large one it will surely eat the Cichlids, but if it too small you are gambling that the Cichlids will not pick its eyes out.

Just remember that no matter how much you read each fish does have a personality of their own and no matter how much you read that one fish will be friendly with another it putting them in an Aquarium together is gambling.

There is always the possibility that some of your fish will get eaten, but the only way to make keeping fish not a gamble is to keep each fish in their own separate fish tank in the hope that this will keep them all safe, but this will not make for happy fish. With trial and error you will learn what can live with what types of fish and save the gambling for Las Vegas casinos.

Article Source: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-to-keep-predator-fish.html

Betta Fish Care

2008-11-08T11:07:00.003+07:00

An easy guide to Betta fish care. Betta is a popular tank fish and its maintenance is least painful.... Betta is a popular tank fish and its maintenance is least painful. However, it does need care and you must be observant about its heath. A sick Betta is easy to spot since naturally the fish is very active and vibrant. If you have had the fish for a while you will be able to spot immediately when they are unwell.

Following tips can help you keep the Betta ecosystem healthy and vibrant:

1. A bowl large enough to allow ample swimming space is a prerequisite. The fish shouldn’t bump and tear its fins or scales. A large enough tank also ensures that the water has adequate oxygen level.

2. These fish do not require filtration but need the cleanest water you can provide them. Change the water every three days to keep it clean and avoid infection in your fish. The water you add to the tank should have set out for 24 hours (aged water).

3. Bettas are also called Siamese fighting fish because the male of the species will fight each other to death! Never put two males in the same tank. Females can stay together and so can one male with many females. You can also keep your Betta with algae eaters, guppies and corydorus catfish.

4. Ensure that the bottom of the bowl or tank is debris free. You can use something as simple as a turkey baster to do this cleaning. Debris sitting at the bottom will make the water cloudy and unhygienic for the fish. They will also cause the water to smell.

5. Maintain the tank pH at 7.

6. When cleaning the tank accessories, avoid using soap because traces of soap will change the water pH.

7. Betta can jump out of tanks and bowls, so keep them covered.

8. Betta is not a fussy fish and will happily eat the Betta pellets and frozen bloodworms. However, Bettas are fond of live food such as brine shrimp, and you must serve it as a treat now and then.
Article Source: http://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=4552309596172535678

Candiru: Vampire Fish

2008-11-08T10:53:00.002+07:00

The amazing tale of a fish that lodges itself in the genitals of men and women in the Amazon river. The Candirú or Canero (Vandellia cirrhosa) is a freshwater fish belonging to the Catfish group. The species grows only to being one to two inches in length and four to six millimeters wide. It is shaped like an eel and is almost completely transparent, making it almost impossible to see in the water. A fast, powerful swimmer, the fish is smooth and slimy, with sharp teeth and backward-pointing spines on its gill. The Candiru is primarily found in the Amazon and Oranoco rivers and has a reputation among the natives as the most feared fish in its waters.

There are 3 main species of Candiru: the finger-sized Candiru-açu and a toothpick-sized species normally burrow into larger fish. The whale Candiru is a scavenger that only prefers feeding on dead fish. Though they live in the river, like most scavengers they do not like the sun and tend to bury themselves in the mud and sand of the river bottom underneath logs and rocks.

The Candiru is a parasite. Its modus operandi is simple as well as ruthless; to find a fish, the candiru first tastes the water, trying to locate a water stream that is coming from the gills of a fish. Once such a stream is detected, the candiru follows the stream to its new host and inserts itself inside the gill flap. Spines around its head then pierce the scales of the fish and draws blood while anchoring the candiru in place. The candiru then feeds on the blood by using its mouth as a slurping apparatus and while rasping the long teeth on its top jaw. It then, unhooks its fins and sinks to the bottom of the river to digest its meal. The blood feeding has led to it earning the moniker: the vampire fish of Brazil.

However the reason that the Candiru is most feared by humans is because it is the only vertebrate known to parasitize humans! The fish is said to be addicted to the taste and smell of human urine. Candirus parasitize humans, when they are skinny-dipping while urinating in the water. The candiru tastes the urine stream and follows it back to the human. It then swims up the urethra and lodges itself somewhere in the urinary tract with its spines. Blood is drawn, and the candiru gorges itself on the blood and body tissue, its body sometimes expanding due to the amount of blood consumed.

Once inside it would eat away the mucous membranes and tissues until hemorrhage would kill it or the host. It was also said that even if one caught the fish by the tail, once in the urethra it could not be pulled out because it would spread itself like an umbrella. The Candiru can attack both men and women. Penectomy is generally preferred to the misery and pain associated with leaving the fish in the urethra.

One way to expel the fish would be to drink the juice of the green fruit of the Jagua tree, Genipa Americana L. The juice of this fruit is brewed into a tea and drunk hot, supposedly causing the skeleton of the fish to dissolve and resulting in its expulsion from the victim within a couple hours. A synthetic version of the brew has been used in the past by urologists to dissolve bladder "incrustations" and kidney stones. The Candiru can also be removed surgically. But both these processes are time consuming.

There are moves to ban the import of these fish into the United States because of fears that some of them might find their way into American rivers and wreck havoc.

As of now there are no known predators of the Candiru and apart from their feeding habits there is very little information available about them.
Article Source: http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/2-29-2004-51087.asp

We Want To Breed Asian Arowanas Commecially But

2008-11-07T10:00:00.001+07:00

Today we see an interesting development of individuals who are enquiring about the feasibility of investing in arowana breeding farms. These potential investors are ofcourse only interested in the more expensive asian arowanas which consists mostly of the cross back gold, red and red tail golden (or RTG) arowanas. We will continue to see a steady increase in demand due to the growing affluence in many parts of Asia especially in China.

Feng shui considers the asian arowanas as one of their three 'lucky' fishes because it resembles the mythical dragon in asian folklore and is therefore much sort after by feng shui practitioners. The other 2 fishes in the feng shui realm are koi and goldfish. There used to be another fish, flowerhorn (or Luo Han), which was also popular in feng shui but have actually not been featured much nowadays.

What has also driven up the prices for these beautiful asian arowanas are the fact that it is very difficult to breed them. (Again we are talking about the red, gold and RTG arowanas only.) Thus far, they have only been successfully bred commercially in Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. No one has succeeded in breeding them anywhere else which has led to a constant 'short supply' of asian arowanas in the market. Success rates in breeding asian arowanas in tanks are also too few and far between and is just not viable commercially.

Because of the high profit potential stated above, many more parties are becoming interested in investing in arowana breeding projects. However before you do take the plunge, please weight the pros and cons first as there are inherent risk involved.

1) The barrier to entry can be quite substantial because, on top of the investment to build the farm, you also have to purchase many adult arowanas. For this business to be viable, you will need many ponds because not all will be producing from day one. Each pond needs to have between 20 - 40 adult arowanas at around $5000 - $10,000 each. So please work out your sums well before you decide on taking the plunge.

2) Even if you have the farm and the arowanas in place, there is still a chance that they will not breed enough for you to sustain the farm. Please do not take the plunge if you do not have someone experience to run it for you. You need an experience individual with a 'sharp' eye who can spot pairing arowanas (which means possible male arowanas that are carrying the fry in their mouth) and know when is the right time to harvest the fry. Even experience breeders don't get it right all the time, let alone us. So be mindful here!

3) If you are intending to try this in a place or country which has no history of breeding success in the past, then you have to be triply sure this is what you want to do. Asian arowanas are very picky about what kind of environment they will breed in. There must be a 'right' climate and optimal mix of soil and water in the mud ponds for them to breed in. I want to emphasize again that they have only been successfully bred commercially in 3 countries, namely Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore. Does this mean it cannot be bred in any other country? Frankly, no one knows! Never say never but you just need to know the facts thus far and be ready for any eventuality!

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

How to select the best Arowana

2008-11-07T09:10:00.003+07:00

If you are going to spend a thousand dollars on a pet fish, you better be picking the best one from the aquarium. Here are some tips of how to find the best arowana. To say that arownas are oddballs in the fish community is totally in sync with the picture these fishes present. These dinosaurs of fish tanks look like living fossils are intriguing to watch and have in your tank. They are also very expensive fish so when you buy them, make sure you are getting the best fish. When choosing these fish for your tank, look for the following criteria:

1. Body shape: A good shape in arowana implies a broad body with proportionate fins and a pointed mouth along with a slope between the head and back. The broad look is preferred because it corresponds to the arowanas aggressive and powerful nature and image, however, there are variations in species.

2. Color: All species of arowana should be brightly colored and should look lustrous.

3. Swimming posture: Most people are attracted to arowana because of the way it swims. A fish with a good posture will swim without effort and will make graceful moderately slow turns in the tank. Its body will be straight, horizontal and the fish will swim in the upper level of the tank, close to the surface. At no point should the fish appear to be stiff or jerky. An arowana looks truly majestic when swimming.

4. Tail / Fins: Always avoid prolonged clamped fins in arowana. Fins should be proportionate to the body and must be fully open when the fish swims. The color should be strong and smooth. There are variations in species.

5. Barbels: Notice the color of barbels , it should be similar to the body color. Strong, long barbels indicate good health. In addition, they should be of equal length and point upwards.

6. Eyes: Avoid fish with overly protruding eyes. Eyes should be proportionate to the body, clear and both eyes should be of the same size and shape.

7. Mouth and lips: Arowana mouth is large, pointing up, and arrogant looking but avoid choosing arownas with protruding upper or lower lip. The mouth and lips of arowana should close tightly without a gap.

8. Scales: Fish scales should not be crooked and should be bright. They should be large and distinctive from each other.

9. Gill Cover: The gill edge should be circular and when breathing, the motion should not be too obvious. The gill cover is smooth and flat to the fish body. Radiance of gills in fish is indicative of good health.

10. Teeth: Arowana teeth should be arranged neatly and should be in line with the jaw line.

One last tip. You have to like the fish as it appears to you. There has to be a certain chemistry when you set your eyes on the one you are going to buy. You want to be living in harmony when you bring your new friend home, right?

Article Source http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-to-select-best-arowana-pet-fish-aquarium.html

Aquarium Watching is Good For You

2008-08-19T09:11:00.002+07:00

Stress is a fact of life for many people in today's world. It can cause numerous health problems, such as a heart attack, high blood pressure and mental disorders to name a few. We cannot always eliminate all the factors that cause us stress in our lives, but we certainly can find ways to alleviate stress. Finding various relaxation techniques is one of them. Staring at my aquarium is what helps me to relax.

Several studies, including one published in the Summer 1990 issue of Anthrozoos, a publication which focuses on the relationships between humans and animals, do suggest that the physical activity of sitting and viewing an aquarium, does indeed, lower blood pressure.*

What makes an attractive aquarium?

It is the combination of lighting, plants, decorations and fish. For example, bright fluorescent lights will show off the fish colors and promote plant growth. There are many flowering plants available and they can make an aquarium a beautiful underwater garden. Bushy plants provide hiding places for the fish while spindly plants gracefully sway with the current of the water.

Decorations, such as rocks or driftwood encourage the fish to hide and play. They also dress up the tank and give it a natural feel.

The biggest factor is the type of fish. Are they going to be big fish, small fish, schooling fish, top swimmers, medium level swimmers or bottom swimmers? All species of fish have habits. Neon tetras are small and look best when they in a school. Gouramis like to swim at the top because they periodically stick their mouths out of the water to take a gasp of air. African cichlids are medium swimmers and go anywhere in the tank. Size of fish is important. A tank cannot be overcrowded and remember that small fish can grow big.

An active and attractive tank encourages the viewer to watch the tank longer and it brings on a greater feeling of tranquility.

Just by looking at the gentle movement of the fish and listening to the bubbling of the filter, you will forget everything else that is around you. Soon you will find yourself mesmerized.

This is also the reason why many doctor and dentist offices or counseling centers have aquariums. It's pure relaxation thanks to nature's beauty.

Article Source : http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/tropical_fish/111029

Arowana Care and Feeding

2008-08-19T08:27:00.004+07:00

The arowana or dragon fish is highly sought out due to its unusual appearance and a good luck symbol in several cultures

Arowanas belong to the Osteoglossiformes family which is one of the most ancient fish species. Their origin has been traced back to the Jurassic era, close to 200 million years ago.

They have a long body, large slanted mouth, upturned jaw, sharp teeth, big eyes and a pair of barbels (whiskers) growing out of the tip of its lower mouth. One of the most unusual characteristics of arowanas is their bony tongue which is used to crush their prey. Some varieties can grow as long as three feet.

Native Habitat of Arowanas

Arowanas are native to four continents: Asia, Africa, Australia and South America. In Asia, they are called a Dragon Fish or Feng Shui Fish. They are on the endangered species list in several countries.

The exportation of these fish is strictly regulated and can only be shipped from countries where they are bred on farms where the supply is considered plentiful. This accounts for the high price (usually $1000 minimum).

Most stores sell Silver or Black Arowanas from South America because they are less expensive. Species from Asia, such as the Red Dragon Fish, are rarer and most expensive. African and Australian fish are not available for export.

Buying Arowanas

Baby arowanas sold in stores are usually three inches long and still have their egg sacs attached. At this size, the fish are still fragile. Once the egg sac is gone, these fish are able to eat on their own. Babies should be kept in a small tank because they frighten easily and moved to a larger tank after they grow a few more inches.

Feeding Arowanas

Arowanas need to be fed live foods such as brine shrimp, bloodworms, beef hearts, cockroaches and tubiflex worms. It is good to feed them vegetables such as lettuce or zucchini. They have a voracious appetite so be prepared to spend a lot of money on food. Live food is always more expensive.

Tank Selection and Compatibility of Arowanas

Silver and black species can grow up to three feet long so it is important to house them in a large tank. This is the biggest mistake made by hobbyists; underestimating tank requirements. If the tank is too small, it can stunt the arowana’s growth and it can become misshapen.

They are strong fish and can break a tank if they are housed in an undersized tank. The water temperature should be between 70F and 80 F with a PH around 7. They are known to be jumpers so the tank must be covered.

Arowanas can be aggressive towards other fish so it’s recommended to not mix them with other fish. Their scales and barbels are very delicate; therefore, do not put any sharp ornaments in the tank. It is recommended to place their food in the centre of the tank in order to prevent them from bumping against the side of the tank.

With proper tank conditions and a healthy diet, an arowana can live up to 25 years!

Article Source : http://fish.suite101.com/article.cfm/all_about_arowanas

How to Use a Feng Shui Fish Tank

2008-08-16T09:30:00.002+07:00

Fish are a very important part of Asian culture. Perhaps you've seen Chinese and other Asian artwork that includes koi or goldfish. You may also consider Asian water gardens that you can incorporate into your home and which include these types of very beautiful fish.

Therefore, when you consider feng shui, which is both an art and a science, you might be curious as to how you can use a feng shui fish tank in your home. How do you introduce it, and where should you keep it? Are there places you should not include a feng shui fish tank?

Sometimes, in Feng Shui, Small Is Beautiful

If you think that a feng shui fish tank must necessarily be large, that's not really true. What feng shui wishes to incorporate is balance and simplicity. This means that if you try to incorporate a large fish tank into a small home or room, this will only lead to a more cluttered feeling, which is against feng shui principles.

Instead, for a small space, a small feng shui aquarium is just fine, especially when it's perfectly balanced to the room itself. In addition, a feng shui fish tank doesn't even need to be an aquarium, necessarily. A simple small fishbowl with just a goldfish or two will do the job nicely as long as it's properly displayed and maintained.

This might be good news to you if you are on a budget and don't want to spend a lot of money on a large aquarium, in addition to spending a lot of money to both stock it and maintain it.

Where to Put a Feng Shui Fish Tank

You might already be familiar with the five elements in feng shui, which are water, wood, metal, fire and earth. These are the embodiment of feng shui and the elements complement one another and stop each other from monopolizing a whole room. This is why your feng shui fish tank will be useful. With a smaller fish tank or bowl, the balance can be attained by using it as an accent to the room.

If the room is colored in earth tones, such as tans or browns, you'll need a water element to bring in balance. If your living room is this type of color scheme, the water element needs to be incorporated here. This is especially helpful if the fish inside are colored brightly, such as fish with yellows, oranges, or other bright hues that will offset the warm earth tones.

However, you also need to make sure that your feng shui fish tank does not distract from another strong element. For example, if a large fireplace dominates your living room, you cannot also have a large aquarium there. This will create two large, strong elements, and they will conflict with each other. Therefore, you will not be harmonized and will be off balance.

Make sure that you place your fish bowl somewhere it can complement the room and the environment in it. This will ensure your feng shui fish tank is used to its best advantage.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Brachydanio fish care and aquariums

2008-08-14T09:38:00.001+07:00

How to

Brachydanio Albolineatus, Rerio, Nigrofasciatus, etc, are common aquarium fishes, which the Brachydanio Albolineatus is commonly named the Gold Danio or Pearl Danio. Danio comes from Sumatra or India and grows 2 inches in size. This slim Jim fish has a reasonably pressed figure, which its shimmering body makes it the “Mother of Pearls,” look-alike. Brachydanio Albolineatus come in a variety of colors, including blue, green, red, yellow, etc. The fish is calm and quiet in nature, and lives well in communal tanks. The Danio is one of the smarter fishes, which prefers to live in plant-y waters. The fish also prefers darker gravel, rather than lighter colored gravel. If you add lights to your aquarium, make sure the light is situated so that it targets the front of the fish. The fish feeds and expects water conditions similar to the Rerio breed. The males are distinguished by their slimmer and colorful body. The fish breed in the same way as the Brachydanio Rerio.

Brachydanio Rerio common referred to as Zebra Danio comes from the Eastern areas of India. The slim, small fish only grows around 1 ¾ inches in size. These fellers are noted for their cylinder shaped body and appealing golden stripes, silver, and bluish black stripes. Rerios are smart fish, which prefer a calm and peaceful atmosphere. The fish will feed on all foods and has no high expectations on water conditions. The female Rerio is thicker than the male counterpart is. If you are looking for breeding fish, then the Rerio is the choice of fish. You must protect the eggs however, since the Rerio will feast on its own fry.

How to breed
To breed Rerio fish, it is recommended that you apply a half-inch diameter or 1 inch coating of pebbles at the bottom of the tank. The waters depth should not succeed 3 inches. In addition, the longer tanks are ideal for the Rerio. Fry eat infusoria once they are born. In addition, the water temperature should remain at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Various other methods are used in breeding the Rerio.

Brachydanio Nigrofasciatus is the Spotted Danio, which derives from India or Burma. The fish grows 1 ½ inches in size, and its shape is similar to the Brachydanio Rerio. This fish expects the same water conditions and food as that of the Brachydanio Rerio. As for breeding, you will use the same method, however spawning is a bit more dramatic.

Danio Aequipinnatus is the Giant Danio, which derived from the western coast of India around Malabar. The fish is also found in Ceylon. This fish grows 4 inches in size. The silver colored fish often has a yellow and blue top to bottom stripe, which when the fish is breed it will change its color to a rosy shade. This particular species are harder to net, therefore learn handling instructions to properly, net the fish. In addition, this fish can hang with the big boys in communal tanks, yet the fish are a bit fidgety in nature. This fish group is of the greedy group, since it has an enormous appetite and is not fidgety when it comes to eat.

Danio Aequipinnatus is not place high demands on water conditions, yet the fish seem to attract well in neutral or reasonably hard water. The fish also attract well to reasonably alkalinity water. The fish also covets larger tanks. The water temperature should remain at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This specimen produces semi-adhesive eggs, which generally fry in 3 days. Finally, the Aequipinnatus enjoy pebbles at the bottom of the tank when spawning as well.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Aquarium and Fish Care Choices

2008-08-14T09:15:00.003+07:00

How to Care for Dangerous Fish

Characidae belongs to the Ostariophysi species. The fish have small adipose or connective tissues or fins. The fish have jaws, which include teeth. Characidae also has Weberian small bony structure (Ossicles), which links to the bladder and inner area of the fish’s ear. Characidae species tend to arrive from South and Central America; however, a small section of the world may also have these fish, such as Central Africa. You can purchase two types of these fish, i.e. the carnivores, or the omnivorous. Omnivorous will feed from vegetables and/or animals. The carnivores typically feast on meats. You will also find Characidae fish in the predominant herbivorous section. The herbivorous is probably the choice specie you want to avoid, since your aquarium will be destroyed when he finishes nibbling.

For the most part if you choose the Characidae, make sure that you do not include in your tank, smaller fish such as the Angelfish, Fighters, etc. The Characidae tend to use their teeth to gnaw at smaller objects, including other fish. Piranhas’ fish are similar to the Characidae species. Piranhas come from South America and freshwater, which these fish also have sharp teeth. The piranhas also have strong jaws, which these jaws are dangerous, just as the jaws of the Characidae species. The fish are predatory species, which attack in large groups. The Characidae tend to attack on their own or sometimes in groups. Yet the jaws and teeth could easily rip apart terrestrial species in a relatively quick time. If you are a beginner, fish collector stay away from this specie, as well as the piranhas.

What they eat
Characidae enjoy dining on meats, such as worms, etc.

What type of water they enjoy?
Characidae tend to enjoy soft swampy waters. The waters make it easy for breeding, which the fish will lay eggs that will stick to the bottom of the tank. Be aware that Characidae eat their own. Therefore, if the eggs are in the tank don’t be surprise if the Characidae devours the youngsters. If you are thinking of Characidae to breed, make sure you learn skills before you purchase the fish.

Serrasalmus Rhombeus
The fish are commonly called Spotted Piranha and White Piranha. The piranhas derived from the Amazon Basins and South America. Piranhas grow up to 10 inches in size. The aquarium fish only grow six inches in size. Piranhas are not ideal for those starting aquariums or fish care. These fish should not habitat with passive fish as well. Piranhas have a deep pressed body. The body has silvery or olive green colors. The piranhas have strong teeth, which they use to devour, or tear apart other creatures, as well as tanks. The fish rather resemble a bulldog, which they also have a lower jaw line that makes a person feel threatened when approaching the fish. Piranhas are aggressive fish. The fish will dine of large or small fish.

How to net
When using a net it is important that you take extreme precaution. The fish will gnaw at your hand.

Piranhas feed from lean meats and other fishes. The fish are carnivorous, which makes them a showpiece rather than a pet. The upside is piranhas are not picking with water conditions, and the fish will not breed in aquariums. Be aware that if you put two piranhas in the same aquarium, Mary will feast on George or vise versa. In other words, they will eat each other as well. Piranhas include the Red-Breasted and Natterer Piranhas. The Red-Breasted and Natterer Piranhas feast in the same way as the Serrasalmus Rhombeus.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Aquariums To Brighten Up Your World

2008-08-13T10:02:00.002+07:00

Having an aquarium is a fun hobby for many, and it brings so much color and life into the room that it is placed in. Before you go out and buy one, you need to decide whether this is a casual or serious hobby, and how much time you are willing to put into maintaining the water balance of the tank.

There are two main types of aquariums, the saltwater and the freshwater aquarium. Saltwater fish of course survive in a saltwater environment, while freshwater fish need fresh purified water. Obviously, if you put freshwater fish in a saltwater tank it will not survive, as saltwater fish need the saltwater environment and would “suffocate” in freshwater.

The freshwater aquarium is easier to maintain than the saltwater aquarium, and setting it up is quite simple, with all that is needed are a filter, heater, thermometer and lights. You need to leave the tank cycling for about four weeks to cultivate the bacteria cycle, and also to keep the ammonia level down. The fresh water must not contain any chlorine or ammonia, because ammonia is deadly to the fish as it makes breathing very difficult.

Once your tank is set up you can start out with smaller species of fish, until you become more experienced, after which you can move onto bigger species of fish.

The saltwater aquarium is more complex to maintain and requires a lot more maintenance and hard work. With the saltwater tank the salt in the water needs to be regulated along with its PH level and temperature. You should also place living rocks into the saltwater aquarium for about two months to get the bacteria cycle going, as rocks have the good bacteria present on their surface. Once the bacteria level has built up, then set up the filter. Thereafter the tank is ready for saltwater fish.

For more color and variation in your saltwater tank, you can add corals or anemones. These are living plants that have to be hand fed by placing the food above them and they then curl their tentacles around the food and bring the food into their mouth.

Do not put in the saltwater tank fish that eat the anemones, or bigger fish that may eat the smaller fish. Some saltwater fish are also poisonous, so beware. Saltwater aquariums are only for the serious as it takes a lot of work to get the water conditions just right, namely the saltwater, temperature and the PH must be at a safe level.

Regardless of which type of aquarium you choose, they are bound to brighten up your room and make it much more vibrant.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Leopard balistidae fish care and aquarium

2008-08-11T14:32:00.000+07:00

How to

The Leopard Filefish caught my interest. This bona fid ugly marine fish comes from the family of Balistidae. The fish is commonly found in the Amanses Sandwichiensis group. The fish dwells in the Pacific, Atlantic, and the Indian Oceans. The fish is also found in the Red Sea. Ironically, this fish has a friendly biological nature; and will dwell with other aquarium fish. The Gold Rim has its ugly nature, yet a bit more attractive than the Leopard Filefish. The Filefish feeds on most foods, including omnivorous and sting sea anemones.

Environmental conditions
Filefish prefer to live in water temperatures set between 75 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit. The water density should be set at 1.023 and the pH balance around eight. Filefish must have substrate and good-lighted areas, as well as sandy-bottomed tanks. Filefish prefer to live in well-furnished houses, as well as sheltered structures in vertical nature.

Feeding:
The Leopard Filefish enjoy the same foods as the Gold Rim, i.e. omnivorous foods, sting sea anemones, and so on.

The fish is a sociable critter that has a horn-like structure on his forehead. His eyes are colorful blue with brownish-orange rims. Filefish also have erect large pelvic spines, which have flapped skin lose around the area. The Gold Rim fish comes from Indo-Pacific as well, and is not kin to the Leopard Filefish.

Frogfish is another group of ugly fish. The Frogfish kin to the Antennariidae family, and is listed in the Antennarius spp. Group. In fact, the Frogfish makes the bona fid ugly Leopard Filefish look good. This fish resembles a combination between a fish and frog. The fish is a member of the genus and is found in warm areas. The fishes are shaped like clumsy and squats combined really, and include a fishing rod. Frogfish has growths on its thick skin, which slopes perpendicularly up to its open mouth. The fish has no problem camouflaging amongst other fish. He grows around 5 to 8 inches in size and has no known sexual preference.

Environmental Conditions
You will need to seek advice from your supplier. This fish differs as to what type of environment it prefers.

Frogfish lurk behind rocks; therefore, the aquarium should have a surplus of rocks so that fish will have a hiding space to hunt its food. Frogfish can overpower larger fish groups; therefore, you should seek advice as to what types of fish to house with this critter. In addition, the fish is finicky in tank eating; therefore consider feeding him strips of meat and/or fish. This is territorial fish, which can keep with kin species of peaceful nature. The first experience, i.e. at the start the fish should have his own dwelling without social gathering.

Some of the interesting marine fish include the Boxfish or Trunkfish, and the Pufferfish. The Boxfish/Trunkfish derive from the Ostracion spp. This fish is of the genus that dwells in the tropical Indo Pacific Oceans. The Boxfish has a yellow frame that is sprinkled with block spots. In fact, his eyes are rimmed in darker yellow, yet the eyes are blackish. The environmental nature includes water temperatures at 75 degrees, 82, and/or 86 degrees Fahrenheit. The waters density should be set at 1.018 or no higher than 1.030. The fish expects good lighting, and the tank should have substrate, sandy bottom. Don’t forget to supply sufficient hiding space. Boxfish on omnivorous goods, more so than other foodstuff: The fish are sociable, and have interesting eye behaviors. NOTE: Few of the Trunkfish or Boxfish have unsociable nature and are vicious.

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Does Your Elevator Speech Pass the Goldfish Test?

2008-08-11T14:21:00.004+07:00

Studies show that the average American has a nine second attention span (about the same as a goldfish) and, in reality, doesn't care what you do or who you are. It's not that we're horrible people, we just don't have the time. We're too busy thinking about everything we need to do: our jobs, the bills piling up on the kitchen table, our parents' health, what's for dinner, who's picking the children up after school, the holidays are coming, etc. But since we're polite, we ask and we try to listen.

Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to get our attention so that we are focused on you and your business. You have between 20 and 30 seconds max. Can you do it?

A 20-30 second verbal message is also called an "elevator speech". Studies show that you use your elevator speech 22 more times than you use your printed business card. Yet how much time, effort and energy did you spend in preparing your printed business card as opposed to your oral one?

People prefer to do business with people - not with nameless, faceless entities. When you have a chance to be face-to-face with your target audience, you want to have a verbal message that grabs their attention and doesn't let go. You want them asking questions about you and your business because they HAVE to know more.

Take the following:

1. "Hi, I'm a business coach and I help small businesses get bigger."

2. "Hi, I teach businessowners the seven secrets to attracting wealth and skyrocketing their sales, so they can spend more time doing what they love."

Which grabs your attention more?

The first is very matter-of-fact, more educational. The second on the other hand hints of something more - a secret, actually SEVEN secrets. Among the things we love most are:

1. numbers 2. secrets

We are a numbers-oriented society. Everything is how much or how many. "How old are you?" "What does she weigh?" "What is your salary?" "The Top Ten" of this or that list. Take a look at magazine covers the next time you're out shopping and you'll realize how much we love numbers and numbered lists.

And then there are the secrets. From childhood, we've all heard the taunt "I have a secret, I have a secret and you don't know it." It's ingrained in us. We not only want to know the secret. . . we need to.

The first half of the message addresses a basic need - wealth. Now take a look at the second half of the message "so they can spend more time doing what they love."

The second half addresses "time" - everyone wants more time to do what they WANT to do, not what they HAVE to do. The first message spoke of helping "small businesses get bigger" - that's great IF they want to get bigger, IF they are ready to get bigger. If a businessowner is in "overwhelm", as most unfortunately are, the last thing he/she may want is to "get bigger" and you will have lost them.

Always remember that people view everything through a "WIIFM" filter - What's In It For Me? In crafting your elevator speech, you want them to hear, understand and even feel what you can do FOR THEM. Address their basic needs right up front and they will be anxiously awaiting the follow-up. Now it's your job to keep them interested. Go get 'em!

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com

Does Your Elevator Speech Pass the Goldfish Test?

2008-08-11T14:21:00.002+07:00

A 20-30 second verbal message is also called an "elevator speech". Studies show that you use your elevator speech 22 more times than you use your printed business card. Yet how much time, effort and energy did you spend in preparing your printed business card as opposed to your oral one?

People prefer to do business with people - not with nameless, faceless entities. When you have a chance to be face-to-face with your target audience, you want to have a verbal message that grabs their attention and doesn't let go. You want them asking questions about you and your business because they HAVE to know more.

Take the following:

1. "Hi, I'm a business coach and I help small businesses get bigger."

2. "Hi, I teach businessowners the seven secrets to attracting wealth and skyrocketing their sales, so they can spend more time doing what they love."

Which grabs your attention more?

The first is very matter-of-fact, more educational. The second on the other hand hints of something more - a secret, actually SEVEN secrets. Among the things we love most are:

1. numbers 2. secrets

We are a numbers-oriented society. Everything is how much or how many. "How old are you?" "What does she weigh?" "What is your salary?" "The Top Ten" of this or that list. Take a look at magazine covers the next time you're out shopping and you'll realize how much we love numbers and numbered lists.

And then there are the secrets. From childhood, we've all heard the taunt "I have a secret, I have a secret and you don't know it." It's ingrained in us. We not only want to know the secret. . . we need to.

The first half of the message addresses a basic need - wealth. Now take a look at the second half of the message "so they can spend more time doing what they love."

The second half addresses "time" - everyone wants more time to do what they WANT to do, not what they HAVE to do. The first message spoke of helping "small businesses get bigger" - that's great IF they want to get bigger, IF they are ready to get bigger. If a businessowner is in "overwhelm", as most unfortunately are, the last thing he/she may want is to "get bigger" and you will have lost them.

Always remember that people view everything through a "WIIFM" filter - What's In It For Me? In crafting your elevator speech, you want them to hear, understand and even feel what you can do FOR THEM. Address their basic needs right up front and they will be anxiously awaiting the follow-up. Now it's your job to keep them interested. Go get 'em!

Article Source: http://www.a1-articledirectory.com